Aufin

iAVs in Florida

82 posts in this topic

???????   Says I can upload 39+ Mb.  Trying to up-load 5.06mb photo, but stops and gives error500 @ 5Mb.  Something on my end?  Won't work with laptop or phone.

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Good beginning.. all the best of luck, Aufin!  Looking forward to watch you progress.  Please see if you can include a picture of the chosen sand.. a closeup one would do.

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Aufin, great going!

 

I take it you're doing the version that DOES NOT use a sump?

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Yup, no sump.  Low tech as I can get.  Fish tank, growbed, back to fish tank.  Put it on timer and everything hopefully runs on cruise control......... right after I get this damn algae bloom under control.

 

Trying g to put up a couple photos, but pos computer and smart-ass phone don't want to cooperate.

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Good beginning.. all the best of luck, Aufin!  Looking forward to watch you progress.  Please see if you can include a picture of the chosen sand.. a closeup one would do.

If I could, I would.  Crummy cheap computer doesn't seem to get along with this site.  I'll get it figured out someday.  PM me your email and I will try it that way.

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Attempting to address the repeated request for sand photos

Hoping that once posted that the readers can click to enlarge the images (some almost are hi-res)

post-3634-0-68332500-1460597476_thumb.jp

multicolor quartz sand- mixed or medium size I'd guess

post-3634-0-05828800-1460597478_thumb.jp

crushed rose quartz sand - guessing medium to small

post-3634-0-00894800-1460597467_thumb.jp

clear quartz sand, large grains

post-3634-0-40883300-1460597473_thumb.jp

glass sand made from recycled bottles (common glass is silicon dioxide)

post-3634-0-35627800-1460597477_thumb.jp

quartz sand production site

For those who may have missed it at the iavs.info site

post-3634-0-08318700-1460597837_thumb.jp - tomato at transplant, first irrigation event

best digitized shot of pristine sanded that I have available

^ extracted from R411 folio prints.pdf

Sorry, I've no close-up images of sands that I actually used in any systems, except perhaps as 35mm slides, which helps no one obviously.

Don't understand how the final image is appearing (at least in post preview mode). If its in the post, obviously this is a quartz sand too.

post-3634-0-85611100-1460597475_thumb.jp

Edited by Mark McMurtry (see edit history)
Badran and vkn like this

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Attempting to address the repeated request for sand photos

Hoping that once posted that the readers can click to enlarge the images (some almost are hi-res)

attachicon.gifmulti-color quart sand.jpg

multicolor quartz sand- mixed or medium size I'd guess

attachicon.gifsmall crushed rose quartz sand.jpg

crushed rose quartz sand - guessing medium to small

attachicon.gifclear quartz large sand.jpg

clear quartz sand, large grains

attachicon.gifglass sand from recycled bottles.jpg

glass sand made from recycled bottles (common glass is silicon dioxide)

attachicon.gifquartz sand production site.jpg

quartz sand production site

For those who may have missed it at the iavs.info site

attachicon.gifFresh Sand Bed Surface.jpg - tomato at transplant, first irrigation event

best digitized shot of pristine sanded that I have available

^ extracted from attachicon.gifR411 folio prints.pdf

Sorry, I've no close-up images of sands that I actually used in any systems, except perhaps as 35mm slides, which helps no one obviously.

Don't understand how the final image is appearing (at least in post preview mode). If its in the post, obviously this is a quartz sand too.

Thanks.. Very useful pictures.. 

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I've posted these for aufin, maybe he can tell us more about them in a subsequent post

 

A.     post-166-0-01081200-1460611483_thumb.jpg

 

B.     post-166-0-05928400-1460611491_thumb.jpg

 

C.     post-166-0-28676100-1460611498_thumb.jpg

 

D.     post-166-0-84204100-1460611505_thumb.jpg

 

E.      post-166-0-43743500-1460611515_thumb.jpg

 

F.      post-166-0-29372300-1460611522_thumb.jpg

GaryD, Badran, ande and 1 other like this

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  Ready to put a couple trial plants in.  What is recommended ....... rinse all, some/most, or none of the media from the roots before placing the little starters in the sand? 

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Same 'rules' (principles) apply as when transplanting anything in to anything.

- which is to absolutely minimize disturbance/damage to the roots. The active growing fine 'tips' are basically invisible - so just 'cause you won't be able to see them doesn't mean they aren't there. Be kind and gentle with children, including plants. Also, never expose roots to direct sunlight, even for a few seconds. If you are 'talking about' transplanting from typical starter tray cells, just put the plug in the sand. Set them as 'deep' as possible but leave 1/4 to 1/2" of distal stem above surface (keep cotyledons exposed. Firm the sand near the plug so that water will easily wick into the plug. Within no time you'll never know that the plug is even there.

What species (or mix) are you growing?

In your photos, the dark streaks in your furrows appear to be ... well ... shall we say 'considerable'. If that's a dark algae, shade will deal with that (e.g. plant canopy and prior to that some strips of anything 'safe' that will block light laid temporarily over the furrow such as black polyE would help. I never bothered). Algae are great at storing nutrient for later, particularly Phosphorus. Think of them as little bio-batteries or time-released micro bags fertilizer. If that's compost, then it appears in the images to be much more than I'd suggest. A little bit can go a very long way - but here too I just let 'things' develop on their own (as it 'wanted' to). Either way, probably no harm done but next time you try that, consider a lighter hand (less application). Uncertain as to how much infiltration will me reduced in your set-up.

Another comment I feel I should make - to both you and VKN and anyone else following along in the iAVs hymnal (queue the organist. hmmmm, give me a G#) - is to make the raised ridges significantly wider with flat tops and the furrows considerably narrower - your depth looks fine but hard to tell. I too was initially concerned about the steep sidewall slopes of the furrows caving-in/sloughing but soon found out that this was not an issue -ever, especially once some detritus and bacteria become established (< a week). I presume that you've seen the photo/drawings of the furrow/ridge proportions I used. Again, this may work out fine for you as it currently is - but it may not. I only know what I know (did)- your smilage may vary.

Edited by Mark McMurtry (see edit history)
mhaigh, vkn and ande like this

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  If you are 'talking about' transplanting from typical starter tray cells, just put the plug in the sand. Set them as 'deep' as possible but leave 1/4 to 1/2" of distal stem above surface (keep cotyledons exposed. Firm the sand near the plug so that water will easily wick into the plug. Within no time you'll never know that the plug is even there.  Thanks, exactly the kind of answer (and responder) I was hoping for.  Never cared for the "well, not sure, but....." kind of answer.

In your photos the dark streaks in your furrows appear to 'considerable'. If that's a dark algae, shade will deal with that (e.g. plant canopy and prior to that sone strips of anything 'safe' that will block light laid temporarily over the furrow such as black polyE would help. I never bothered. Algae are great at storing nutrient for later, especially P. Think of them as little bio-batteries. If that's compost, No, not compost.  Nothing but leftover RFF bottom sludge.   then it appears in the images to be much more than I'd suggest. A little bit can go along way - but here too I just let things develop on their own. Either way, probably no harm done but next time you try that, go lightly. Uncertain as to how much infiltration will me reduced in your set-up.  Also one of my concerns.  I think I kinda overdid the furrows both in size and "painting" with leftover RFF bottom sludge.  The furrows look a little more filled with sludge than they actually are because of some shadowing, but the water does run through pretty quick.  As things progress, I intend to add some sand along the edges/walls of the hills to make the furrows narrower. 

Another comment I feel I should make - to both you and VKN and anyone else following along in the iAVs hymnal (queue the organist. hmmmm, give me a G#) - is to make the raised ridges significantly wider with flat tops and the furrows considerably narrower - your depth looks fine but hard to tell. I too was initially concerned about the steep sidewall slopes of the furrows caving-in/sloughing but soon found out that this was not an issue -ever, especially once some detritus and bacteria become established (< a week). I presume that you've seen the photo/drawings of the furrow/ridge proportions I used. Again, this may work out fine for you as it currently is - but it may not. I only know what I know (did)- your smilage may vary.  Not so interersted in trying to reinvent the wheel, so I'll work towards getting mine to more closely resemble your photos as much as I can.  I did notice at the end of the day when I stood back and took it all in, that what I had done only resembled what I thought I remembered........ furrows a little too wide, grow hills not wide enough.  I left everything alone since I had tried tweaking things earlier and all I managed to do was screw up the sedimentation activity in the furrows.  Decided I'd let the furrows solidify a little before adding sand to the hill walls.

  Heading out to get a few plants to get things rolling along.  Getting worried about the fish since it's been over a week since I tore down my F/D system and water has just been circulating in the pond without any filtration until yesterday.  Wonder what the fish are saying about me. 

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RFF= Reverse Flow Filter/Separator.  Just one of the peripheral pieces of stuff one needs to do AP ...... till everything clogs up and goes "sideways".

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Hi MMM

WTF is "RFF" ?

Try hoover  the cursor over RFF

 

cheers

 

edit

 

 

We use a lot of acronyms in aquaponics and aquaculture, and this can cause a fair bit of confusion for people who are just starting out.  To help make things easier for those new to the Aquaponics Nation community, we've compiled a list of the most frequently used acronyms, along with their corresponding meanings.  Notice that if you hover over any of the acronyms in on this site that a little helper popup shows what it stands for.  We hope you will find this helpful, and we welcome any suggestions for making it even better.  

 

So, without further delay, here's the list:


RFF Radial Flow Filter

 


This post has been promoted to an article

 

 

WTF is not on the list :startle:

Edited by ande (see edit history)
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Hi MMM

Try hoover  the cursor over RFF

 

cheers

 

edit

 

 

WTF is not on the list :startle:

Yeah, thanks. I knew that this list was here somewhere but I could not find same despite looking in various places (search box NO help at all - even the word "abbreviation" came up with zilch (WTF)

"WTF" requires no explanation, It is what it is.

Edited by Mark McMurtry (see edit history)

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Hi Aufin,

 

Great effort.  Congratulations for being one of the first people in the world to build an iAVs in the new era.

 

Which got me thinking.  Why not build a few more small iAVs beds instead of disrupting the entire large bed when changing out plants with large root balls and disrupting the furrows.  Something to think about.  Any thoughts, Gary?

 

Question for anyone growing viney vegs.  I've seen photos of cuces, tomatoes, etc being trained upward on string, rope, cord, whatever.  Is it best to just train one or two strong vines from the plant and nip the others off, or train everything into a bundle along a couple strings?

 

Having several sand beds in a backyard system is a great idea from a number of perspectives including......bio-security, pest management, redundancy, crop rotation and (as you've suggested) plant culture needs.

 

I'm a long way from being a master horticulturist but the tomato vines that I've seen in commercial greenhouses are pruned to a single vine and coiled as the tomatoes are harvested.

 

Once again, mate.....great effort.....and I wish you the very best with your new system.  I'll also do what I can to help you to realise its potential.

 

Gary

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Beautiful!

 

A little less than a month with the new iAVs and what little I've put in the bed looks happy.  Tomatoes, peppers, cucumber, cantaloupe and a small bean plant I rescued from another bed that wasn't doing so good.  Finally got the weather protective top on. 

 

attachicon.gifiAVs01.jpg

 

[vkn] I see very few plants there and are scattered leaving empty spaces in between.  Fill it up with some greens that take less nutrients, I would suggest or do you have something else in the planning?

 

Want to grow some okra, but from past experience they have larger root balls than I want to deal with in the main bed, so I built a small 2ftx4ft iAVs bed dedicated just for okra ....... for this season.

 

[vkn] Why is it sooo deep?

 

attachicon.gifiAVsOkra.jpg

 

  Which got me thinking.  Why not build a few more small iAVs beds instead of disrupting the entire large bed when changing out plants with large root balls and disrupting the furrows.  Something to think about.  Any thoughts, Gary?

 

  Since I no longer am running a gravel F/D system, I have an RFF and a homemade swirl/vortex separator I no longer need.  The RFF was inline for a couple years.  The Vortex I made, but never put inline.  It has been tested and doesn't leak, has a conical bottom and drain line, but not drilled for water in or out.  Both are made with 55 gal blue barrels.  If anyone's interested, PM me. 

 

  Question for anyone growing viney vegs.  I've seen photos of cuces, tomatoes, etc being trained upward on string, rope, cord, whatever.  Is it best to just train one or two strong vines from the plant and nip the others off, or train everything into a bundle along a couple strings?

 

[vkn] It would depend on the cultivar you have.  Some of the cucumbers fruit only at the sucker vines and not on the central stem.  Without knowing this beforehand, I had suckered several vines and had lost many fruits.  Similar is the case with some variety of tomatoes that are not indeterminate but loves to be bushy.  Each sucker vines give several bunches of fruits.  For those variety of plants, the latter option you mentioned seems to be the way to go.  Training them upward really helps to increase the growing space and for the air movement within.. I am even trying to go vertical with eggplants that we have; it takes lots of circular space.  I use 4 mm jute ropes that lasts for a year and degrade to a powder, quite eco-friendly too.  Hope some of these thoughts help.  

 

I will look forward to your next update.  Cheers!  - vkn -

Edited by vkn (see edit history)

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Hello,

 

I am new in this forum, im from colombia. Im very interested about  iAVs systems and planing to build one for my project this month.  So any advice/tip on this topic would greatly appreciated. Thanks you very much for introducing me to this wonderful new way of doing acuaponics.

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So... I was wondering. Im a journalist and a educator, and very little or none of this way of doing aquaponics is known in my country. Can this knowledge be translated into spanish , and who, and how we can get the neccesary permissions. Any help would be greatly aprecieted!!

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Hi,

 

Welcome to APN.

 

So... I was wondering. Im a journalist and a educator, and very little or none of this way of doing aquaponics is known in my country. Can this knowledge be translated into spanish , and who, and how we can get the neccesary permissions. Any help would be greatly aprecieted!!

 

 

I will PM you.

 

Gary

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