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egduzant

Aquaponics System SXM

6 posts in this topic

Dear All with-in this forum,

Thank you Gary for the welcoming me to this medium, As stated I’m a newbie to this method of raising fish andplants, after pouring through quite a bit of information on this forum andonline I came up with a system setup I would like to try. Since I already havea fish tank I decided to build my system around it base on it size.

I live on a tropical island where everything with regards tofood is imported and looking for an alternative way to supply my house hold andgain much experience in Aquaponics.

Attached is a plan I came up with if someone could review itI would appreciated all your input on making this challenge a success.

My proposed system to build is as follows;

Fish Tank 880 Gallons

6 Grow Bed each 24 Cubic Feet in Size, which is 4’x6’x1’

1 filter between the FT and the GB (this filter base on your experience whatsize and type should it be base on the size of the system.

Sump Tank is on the return from the grow beds (this I also need helpdetermining the size and type for the system).

I’m planning to use ¾†gravel in my grow Beds, withbell siphon, with the bell pipe diameter of 3†and stand pipe drain size of 1 ½for an ebb and flow system. (Would you recommend this for this system).

Could you advise the best size PVC pipes to used for the outof the fish tank and the return via the sump, I was thinking 1†for the bluelines and 1 ½ for the red lines as per my drawing.

I’m planning to used 333 fish base on my understanding onthe average is 1 fish to 10 liters of water or 2 ½ gallons per fish.

What would be the best way to aerate the system, and thesize pump recommended for this size system to supply the water from the fishtank through the filter to the GB’s

Any thoughts on calculating the water flow rate into and outof the grow beds and what would be the best manner of doing such.

Gary I’m much interested on getting your manual, would Ihave immediate access if I purchase it online or you would have to ship me it asa hard copy.

Any ideas on getting fish to my part of the world, we haveall the couriers’ service coming to my island, FedEx, DHL and UPS, what is therequirement for shipping live fish out of the US, for entry on my side I would takecare of the process on my side. I'm seeking Red Nile Tilapia or Blue.

Our The average annual temperature is 80.6°F, peaking at around 89.6°F.

I’m so excited on getting this up and running, you all helpis much appreciated.

Much thanks.

Eugene

System_Design_SXM Ver 1.01.pdf

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Hi Eugene,

Glad to have you with us.

I'll comment on your plan in detail....when I wake up - with a clearer head. For now, however, there is one glaring issue that I'd like to put to bed....

I’m planning to used 333 fish base on my understanding onthe average is 1 fish to 10 liters of water or 2 ½ gallons per fish.

This stocking density has been discredited by everyone who knows anything about aquaponics......it's a formula for disaster.

The Urban Aquaponics Manual is available online......for the cost of $39.95 for an annual subscription. The manual is not currently available in hard copy.

Gary

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Hi Eugene,

Your tank is not ideal in terms of its shape.....but I can understand why you would want to make use of such a substantial asset. The challenge will be to get the water dynamics right so that you can remove the solids from the fish tank as effectively as possible.

What is the tank made from?

With a fish tank capacity of around 800 gallons (3200 litres), I'd suggest a 55 gallon radial flow separator, a 55 gallon packed media filter, a 55 gallon moving bed bio-filter and a 55 gallon sump tank.

If you incorporate this mechanical and biological filtration into your design, you can reduce your grow beds to half the proposed depth with a commensurate saving in weight, materials, labour and cost.

I'd go for subsurface continuous flow grow beds and skip the auto-syphons. The inclusion of six flood and drain grow beds of the size you proposed, would require a sump tank with a capacity of around 600 gallons. If you opt for six inch deep beds and continuous flow, you'll get away with a 55 gallon sump.

The gravel size is correct at 3/4"......but make sure that it's inert before you buy it.

I'd halve your proposed fish numbers......particularly in light of your tank shape and the associated water dynamics. In any case, the one fish per 10 litres of water thing is very bad advice indeed.

I’m planning to use ¾” gravel in my grow Beds, withbell siphon, with the bell pipe diameter of 3” and stand pipe drain size of 1 ½for an ebb and flow system. (Would you recommend this for this system).

I'd go for 2" pipe on the drain side of things and 1.5" on the supply side. I'd suggest a 1500gph submersible pump

You'll need air stones in the fish tank (I'd use three) and one or two (depending on their size) for the moving bed bio-filter......so you'll need an air pump with a capacity of about 60 - 80 litres per minute.

I'll comment further once I know what your tank is made from.

I'll leave some of our US members to advise you on the importation of tilapia.

Gary

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You definately have the right climate for tilapia, in fact your in the same climate type as the UVI aquaponics research was made. The larger the stand pipe of a siphon, the more likely it is to fail. A 1.5" standpipe will require a very high water flow. If you stick with the autosyphon, then go either 1" or 3/4", you need to get the flow in the pipe going fast enough to trigger the effect. I do second Gary's continous flow idea. I do like one bed autosyphon, because I do cloning of my tomato plants and onions and a flood and drain bed excels at that.

I have no clue as to how you get your initial stock from the US, but I seem to remember reading about studies on aquaponics on that island when I was reading anything close related to aquaponics when I first started. A quick google search revealed this link, maybe a quick drive around the island is all you need to aquire stock. The Cakehouse Group - Hydroponics

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Thank you Gary and Ravnis,for your important words, my tank is madeof fiber glass, I had a sea food company in the past and I had the tank buildfor lobster storage, it was refrigerated. It’s been a while since I used it andI figure it would be a good asset for the project. I also had two four hundredgallons black tanks are manufacture use a three part system of prime grade linearpolyethylene layers and approve by the FDA for proper food and water storage.

Attached yousee a picture of the tank and its plumping that was for the lobsters, which Iwould have to re-plump for the fish I believe, I was concern about getting the solids from the tank as you mentioned.

I would have to research onthe filtration system you recommend and how I could build them versus buying findingthem on the island I believe is going to be a challenge.

Thank you for the refrence on the Cake House Group I would look into if they are still active on setting up something on the Dutch side of the island.

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Hi Eugene,

The rectangular proportions of your fish tank (3m x 950mm x 1.15m) represent the biggest challenge in your proposed system design.

I'd be inclined to treat the tank as a raceway - with the water coming in at one end and the outflow at the other end......and fairly quickly at that. You need to ensure that any fish solids or uneaten food gets pushed down the length of the tank to within reach of the outlet. If your inflow is insufficient to achieve that, you may be able to install a small circulator pump to assist the movement of the water.

As for the system layout...... the attached Queenslander schematic should be some help with that. While the duckweed tank has a specific water quality function, it is optional for those who don't want/need to grow duckweed.

Gary

post-2-13795791106607_thumb.jpg

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