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Pugo

Taiwan Chronicles

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It does seem strange, fish tank showed up the same day, the barrels showed up the day after I ordered them, I ordered the wood which my boss said he had a friend that will get it for me, I gave the order a week later the sample showed up. As they wanted to treat the material. I told them it was fine, and even increased the order so I can level the tank and barrels to the height I need them. a couple days ago my boss said they would deliver it to my house when the order was ready and that has been the last thing I have heard about the subject. I admit the wood is not the normal stuff for Taiwan, But I have seen it here. If it was anyone but my boss I would be a little more pushy about my order. But after living in Asia for over ten years now, I learned to take a polite attitude in everything not worth get up set as it does no good anyway.

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Well Pugo thats you in a nutshell isn't it?

I think thats what makes you a good choise for a moderator, you are relaxed and calm no mater.

Rubber time is a differente way of living, but nice when you are adjusted or familiar with it?

And a good way of living?

Thanks for the invit to befriend, and cong. on the apointment to modteam keep up the good woork

PAUL

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What type of wood are you going to use Pugo?

And how are they treating it?

Be wary of the possibility of treated wood leaching into your water,

You can always just get untreated wood & paint it with fish safe paint if your worried about its exposure to the elements.

Cheers,

Shane.

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Hey did we get to see the drawings or was this a teaser? Did I miss this part?

My sump is below floor level and I am thinking of grow bed outside in front of the green house on the ground? in side the green house is half 55 gal barrels side by side. What is normal depth for gravel or does it depend on what plants? Or is the depth just were the magic bacteria grows? the "pros"(NO NAMES TO PROTECT THE INNOCENT) say 12" what do you think the drawings will look like?

Some of my wood is treated but the water never touches it?

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The depth depends on the system design, if your system is counting on the grow-beds to do the bio work I would say 300mm, as for mine, they will only be 150mm. As I will be building filtration system to do that job, and i am using continuous flow in my grow beds for less headache the way I see it..

Edited by Pugo (see edit history)

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Think I will move the Fish tank over a little as it is a tight fit for an old fat guy...LOL

I left some room behind the fish tank just in case I want to place a trickle filter, Still trying to figure out whether I want to use bio balls or oyster shells.

radompics017.jpg

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Hi Pugo,

Sorry 'bout the delay in getting this drawing sorted.....but life has been hectic here lately.

The system in the drawing is a Queenslander....with a twist. You'll understand what I mean as the discussion progresses.

Here's an overview of how it works:

  • The water drains from the fish tank via a bottom drain or a solids lifting outlet.
  • The water then flows into one of two solids separators where sedimentary and suspended solids are captured.
  • The solids separators are dual purpose - when they are not capturing solids they function as an aerobic digester.
  • The water flows from the solids separator into a moving bed bio-filter......and then into the final barrel - a sump tank.
  • The pump is located in the sump tank and moves the water back to the fish tank to complete the cycle.

As I indicated earlier, the system in the drawing is a Queenslander.....with the added feature of the aerobic digester.

The only difference between the solids separator and an aerobic digester is that the solids separator is fitted with a lid to which filter brushes are attached.

When the solids separator is due for cleaning, the ball valves are arranged so that the water is now diverted through the second solids separator. The lid is removed (with filter brushes attached) and the brushes are given a quick hose to remove the bulk of the attached solids. The lid is then placed on the second solids separator.

The first solids separator is now about to assume the role of aerobic digester. An air stone is dropped into the barrel full of watery solids where it will remain for the next two or three days.

The oxygen rich environment in the barrel will allow the solids to mineralise. When this has occurred, the air stone is removed and the particulate matter in the barrel will settle out. The nutrient-rich liquor can then be syphoned off and the remaining sludge can be removed and put on the compost heap or worm farm.

Michael....please don't feel that you have to use this design.....there are simpler ways to set up an aquaponics system......however, this system:

  • Enables you to use any combination of hydroponic (recirculating or open loop) or soil-based growing systems.
  • Offers flexibility in the positioning of the grow beds/tanks.
  • Enables you to isolate the fish side of the system from the plant growing units.
  • Facilitates the capture (and mineralisation) of solids in such a way that it makes no demand on the dissolved oxygen levels of the system. The nutrient-rich liquor from the mineralised solids is available to you to use in any way you wish.

Anyway, let me know if you have any questions.

Gary

post-2-1379578834255_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Gary, It is nice to know Where i'm going now. I guess I will have to rearrange my step up.. No problem sorry about the slow reply I was stuck in the hospital most of the weekend..

I think I am going to have a few question? soon I have to do a little research on these brush filters.. I know I have seen them But didn't pay much attention to them at the time. Have to revisit the webpages again..

Edited by Pugo (see edit history)

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Okay, I think I will have to use a solids lifting outlet instead of a bottom drain that way I don't have to raise the barrels to match the tank height.

How long do these brushes need to be to function correctly as a solids separator? I bet these are going to be as much fun to find as K1 around here.

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I’m a little confused about volumes and ratio’s.

I know that the ratio between fish tank and grow bed is a very loose, 1:1 and that feed, stocking density, etc.., all have an effect.

My question is: What defines the fish tank and what defines the grow bed..?

Is the amount of water in the fish tank, just the fish tank or do you add any additional filters, sumps, etc..?

The grow beds..? Do you measure how many litres of water they will hold when empty or full of grow bed media..?

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The ratio of fish tank to growbed is always in debate. it can be any place from 1:1 1:2 or 1:3 or more, It all depends on you fish density and how much can your system handle. The more fish the more filtration you should use. it comes down to the amount of ammonia that you produce between fish and food to how much you system can convert to nitrate. Then you have to have enough plants to use the nitrate you produce. As everyones system is a personal design it is impossible to to give a ratio. one guy may use more pipe than the other. As bacteria makes it home on every surface that water comes on contact with.

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As a starting point, with no fish, plants, sumps, filters, how would you measure the ratio between fish tank and grow bed..? Is the grow bed the capacity with or without the media or the amount of water, with or without the media..?

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to clarify a little on ratios..

i have a 110 gallon stock tank that i used for my fish tank last year.. i used 2 55 gallon barrels cut in half lengthwise to create 4 growbeds.. so 110 gallons of growbed... total volume for each component.. i don't count the water volume in my filters or flood tanks, and base the fish load on the amount of filtration,, under capacity because the fish will grow, so base your fish numbers on what size you will harvest..(if you start with 25 small fish that you plan on growing out to 1lb each, then base the size of filtration on that final size.. - 25lbs in the example

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As a starting point, with no fish, plants, sumps, filters, how would you measure the ratio between fish tank and grow bed..? Is the grow bed the capacity with or without the media or the amount of water, with or without the media..?

Ok, that takes care of the water in the system but, what about grow beds..? Do you measure their capacity with or without grow bed media..?

Ok, that takes care of the water in the system but, what about grow beds..? Do you measure their capacity with or without grow bed media..?

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Uncle Sam I think you need this tool. Don't forget to get the PDF too. http://www.aquaponic.com.au/backyard.htm

The grow bed area is measured in surface area never by volume. That's why a ratio does not work.

The variables involved are Fish tank volume, fish stocking density, and fish feed based on X% of average body wight. That gives you the nutrient output from the fish component. The design tool will give you the grow bed area of plants needed to use up all the nutrients. (and grow bed area needed to break down solids if you are using it for that.) It also will give you the tank size you would need if you are not using a sump as the level in the fish tank would go up during the drain cycle. The formula would be based on the minimum water level in the fish tank. With the design tool you ignore the outputs that don't apply to you. It's a spreadsheet so you'll need excel, open office, or google documents to open it.

hope it helps.

Ok, that takes care of the water in the system but, what about grow beds..? Do you measure their capacity with or without grow bed media..?

Ok, that takes care of the water in the system but, what about grow beds..? Do you measure their capacity with or without grow bed media..?

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the size of the growbed is the total volume, so a 55 gallon growbed will hold 55 gallons (roughly)

about 60% of the volume will be your media (gravel, scoria, hydroton) so you need about 40% capacity to "flood" or fill the growbed with water..

does that make sense for you?

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