Moses

My current small test model

39 posts in this topic

You are making good progress Moses.

I would wet the lettuce seed before giving up on it. I am not an authority on rafts( or anything else) but at the Virgin Islands the rafts are right on the water.

What are your growing bed measurements ? Just curious. All of your plants need some moisture,

I would like to see your project when you can show it.  I am sure many others here would like to also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 24/06/2017 at 6:17 PM, Jake Levi said:

You are making good progress Moses.

I would wet the lettuce seed before giving up on it. I am not an authority on rafts( or anything else) but at the Virgin Islands the rafts are right on the water.

What are your growing bed measurements ? Just curious. All of your plants need some moisture,

I would like to see your project when you can show it.  I am sure many others here would like to also.

I believe i have posted picture on the first page, there is still no major addition at the moment other than adding aeration below the grow bed since i am having a hard time trying to find aluminium plate. I have to order it online. Without it, i cant install my 100watts grow light. My grow bed size is 45x55x40, its deep enough right?

 

hello everyone just an update.

so i have decided to put the styrofoam on the water rather than hanging it above the water. The growth of lettuce is great but the pak choy growth is stunned, i suspect  again its the light. Below also i have posted picture of the lettuce and pak choy.

i have also posted picture of my water test. I am using SERA.

1. Nitrites = very low

2. Nitrates = the highest on the color chart

3. Phosphates = the number went over the provided color chart

4. Iron = there is no iron at all since the color didnt change

5. Carbonate hardness = none, since the water is suppose to change from blue green then yellow but it didnt

6. Total hardness = it changes to green at about 12 drops

There are one question that i hope someone can help with,

1. I am trying to germinate my romaine lettuce. I tried with damp towel, direct sowing into moist coco peat and soaking it. But all three yield the same result. Its not germinating. The seed splitted revealing the core but thats it! So can someone please help me regarding this matter? 

I searched the net for the solution, and it mostly get result from marijuana forum. They suggest scarification using sand paper at 200. But there are others that says the seed need warm tempt to germinate. I am confused as to why the lettuce wont germinate, i planted before and it did germinate but now no matter what method i try its not germinating.

IMG_8410.JPG

IMG_8411.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try keeping the seed wet, if it doesnt germinate in several days get new seed, it could be that the seed is starting and then drying out, Keep the towels wet/moist. Not standing in water. 

For your readings , your system hasnt cycled yet,not at all, its not going to affect the lettuce, so go with it. You could sprinkle some ammonia to jump start it, dont add any fish for a couple weeks. THEN only very hardy.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mr.Jake, if the system is not cycled then how is it possible that i have readings for no2 and high no3 ? Is it because of the faulty sera test?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Moses,

 

Sorry, I misread your post, its the opposites, high nitrates is very good, they are ready to feed a crop, the lettuce should respond once you get it to sprout. I think your seed was starting to sprout and then dried out, try it with the top layer of paper towel damp, not flooded, just damp. Chard is very good also, very hardy and a strong grower.  You can put it in salads like lettuce, or cook it for boiled greens or put into stir fry. I do all 3 with it. I am glad your nitrites are down,  major first step.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That'd be great if i can actually bring it to harvest! But now i have new problem. The leaf appears yellowish, and sign of rotting can be seen. The third picture shows the rotting eating away the leaves.

checked the root, it appears healthy. White colored, solid and not watery.

i tried adding pottasium hydroxide (KoH) flakes, i also want to add iron, i think its deficient in iron since i just checked, my fish food doesn't contaion iron but it doesn contain lots of protein.

can anyone please help?

IMG_8440.JPG

IMG_8441.JPG

IMG_8442.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Moses,

Could you give us todays water readings please?

Tank temp.

pH.

Ammonia.

Nitrites.

Nitrates.

Cheers.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes sure Mr.Bigdaddy.

this result were taken just now.

 

No2 = 0,0mg

No3= 100mg/l

Fe=0,1mg/l

Kh= 5dkh

Gh = 8dgh

Po4 = way out of the chart

Temp = 24-25c

Ph = 7-8

 

unfortunately i dont have ammonia test kit since the test liquid bottle i bought was empty inside.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Moses,

Sorry for my delay in reply, ive been hospitalised and have just returned from overseas.

Before a system is fully cycled, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate will (should) all rise to high levels before they drop to acceptable levels.
Only after this RISE and FALL in readings, is your system cycled.

Your stated pH of 7-8 is not an accurate (nor acceptable) result. The test colour corresponds with an accurate pH. Some times it can be hard to distinguish the exact colour. Hold your test sample above a white card or paper.

When testing for Iron, the colour change can be very slight and difficult to see. Any coloured objects near the test can interfere with what you see...Put the test tube on white paper and look down from the top. Any slight difference in colour from the white paper indicates Iron.

Further regarding Iron... Iron available for uptake by the plants decreases as the pH rises above pH6.0. Above pH 7.0 Iron begins to be locked out.

The fact that your PO4 reading is so high could (will) be having a negative impact.

You need to get the pH down in the order of 6.5 - 7.0 to make all nutrients available to the plants, see attached chart.

The newer larger leaves are growing closer together and the stems are not so stretched... this indicates the additional installed lighting is having the desired effect.

I hope this helps a little.


Cheers
Joe

ph-nutrient-chart.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am sorry to hear what has occurred Mr.Joe, what happened?

Yes, i think when i first started the fish tank  there were no No2 & No3 then after a while there was a huge spike on the test for No2&No3 but now the reading of No2 is very low and very high on No3. the good news for me is that the degradation of the leaves is not progressing so fast, fish is not dying at all and still eating normally. Next to that, my aluminum plate has arrived along with the chelated iron ( FeEDDHA ).  now i just need to wait until my aluminum plate is done being drilled for attaching the heat sink then   i can DIY the LED lights and for the epsom salt (for magnesium) to arrive. After adding the iron, i tested the Ph, i think it sits at 6 or 7, i cant be sure as there is no color for 6.5. but the color surely isnt 7 or 6 to be exact when compared.

Additionally i have also found out that my well water contain a little bit of phospates (Po4) and the very high contain of Po4 in my system is due to the fish feed! i tried soaking the test water and the Po4 test spiked. i do hope it is okay, and i think i am gonna alternate between pellets and lenma minor from time to time. regarding the lenma i have read that the wet lenma is actually very low in protein vs the dry lenma.  can anyone confirm this?


 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Hi Moses,

Now I know you have fish in your system and I see that pH and fish tank temperature, my strong advise to you is to get an ammonia test kit urgently and test every day. At those readings, you have a high likely hood of your water being toxic to your fish with any or very little ammonia in it.

There are charts around to show you this, sorry I can't dig one up ATM but they have been posted on this forum and are available elsewhere. 

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

 

Edited by bigdaddy (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sad news, after i added the chelated iron, the plant still died this morning. too bad, interestingly i found out that the algae only grow by the grow bed, not in the filter tank or the fish tank. maybe i will replant after i installed the 100w LED lights and clean the grow bed as well. The algae is probably toxic for the plant.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I'm not sure about algae being toxic for your plant bed Moses, but remember with algae it needs sunlight to survive. If you can stop all the sunlight hitting your area where your algae is you will stop your your algae. During your cycling period or a little after it at about 23C you can expect an algae bloom in your fish tank for a few days I had that when I was running my IBC's. 

I wouldn't be to concerned about your plants going brown and dying at this stage . I think your system is just finishing cycling and balancing itself out. When I first started my plants looked rather sick for a while but I added Seasol, I believe Maxi crop is similar, to my tanks every couple of days or so to help with the lack of nutrients. I found with the pH between 6 and 6.5 my plants could take up the nutrients sufficiently. 

I would replant your plants ASAP and try again. You will need your plants to eat the nitrates.

 

Cheers.

 

Edited by bigdaddy (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now