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  1. There is an existing Aquaponic Plant in India which need to be revived. Enclosing the pictures and video of the unit. We have theoretical knowledge and would really appreciate if aquaponic growers can support us to run the system correctly. Was really impressed with iAV Systems for sand grow beds and will be changing one of the DWC systems into that. We have to understand the economic feasibility for the farmers in India. Also planning to introduce gravel media beds. Fish Tanks : 10,000 Liters, Grow Bed Area = 500 sqft, DWC=150 sqft, NFT=245 sqft, Vertical Towers = 100 sqft. Fishes : Tilapia and Barramundi 1WhatsApp Video 2017-03-29 at 7.44.57 PM.mp4
  2. A very good post of what is IAVS was submitted recently by Dr. McMurtry. I felt it deserved it's own thread. VKN - and anyone else who may benefit/care: I’m going to attempt to smooth your ruffled feathers. I DO want very much for you - and everyone else - to succeed ‘beyond your wildest dreams’ (exceed expectations). If I didn’t, then I wouldn’t still be typing, or otherwise infecting APN with my demonic ‘attitude’ - or ‘putting up with’ hostile lying trolls. I hesitate to craft the definitive ‘definition’ of iAVs at this time, but I’ll ‘give a shot’ at listing what I consider to be the basic requirements: Water: fresh (non-saline), clear (non-turbid), non-polluted (no biological pathogens or ‘chemicals’, metals or nucleotides). Basically, potable water. Rain water is strongly advised for the vast majority of applications/locations. Its also free. (collect and store securely in advance of need). Sand: well-draining, no clay/slit, and chemically inert (does not raise or lower pH of water that comes into contact with it). We’ve been all over this topic in detail repeatedly. “Sand†is a specific range of particle size, not a specific material/mineral composition. Quartz (SiO2) is recommended if/where at all possible, but some other inert minerals and glasses may work well also. Others certainly will not. Operating beyond the scope of our recommendations is at the sole responsibility/risk of the operator(s). Furrows: on the sand surface to distribute ‘water/waste’ evenly across surface and also to keep aerial plant material dry. Pristine sand furrows are stabilized by bacterial films, detritus and/or alga. Attempt to maintain as much ridge area (mound between furrows) as wide as possible. Furrows include both between all rows of plants and around the entire perimeter. Flood/Drain: Saturate filter substrate and then allow it to drain completely once every 2 hours (approx.) during daylight. Leave drained overnight. In the tropics, first ‘cycle’ can begin somewhat pre-dawn and the last start at dusk (finish draining just after total darkness). Since drainage also occurs during the pumping interval, presuming sufficient drainage, one can pump 1/4 up to even one-half of a FT volume per cycle without reducing the FT volume by more than 10 to 15% at any given time. ‘Tank’ (fish containment), Its capacity, proportions, shape (especially bottom slope) and the pump type/location need combine (‘work together’) to effectively allow solids to settle, and collect in a region/zone that the pump will readily extract/remove when it comes on. Try to schedule irrigation volumes sufficient to exchange (turnover) the FT at least twice each day. More might be ‘better’ - which can be accomplished several ways (not described here to avoid confusion) but not recommended to do so by shortening the on cycle interval significantly. Fish/Feed: Sufficient fish biomass and feed input consumed to satisfy fish and generate sufficient ‘waste’ to fertilize the number and species of plants being grown - not feed/stocked more than the filter/microbes can process continuously. This will vary by fish species, age (size), density, DO, pH, Temp, of water, and feed composition/conversion. Do not feed in the evening (allow for complete tank volume exchange between the last feeding of each day and dark). Sustainable fish load and feed rate also varies somewhat depending on type of plant species grown (e.g. leaf vs fruiting) and somewhat on the stage of development/maturity. Too many fish eating too much feed and respiring too much TAN for the size of the biofilter bed in current use is not advised. One could get away with this in the short-term but not over the medium- or long-term. pH; iAVs is dominantly (90-95%) Horticulture - by mass and economic value in most markets). Maximal fish production is NOT a goal nor advised. Vascular plants strongly ‘prefer’ (grow best) in range of pH 5.5 to 6.8 (extremes) and optimally 6.4 +/- 0.4 (variance range depends n specific species). Believe it or not. If one is satisfied with the results of one’s efforts, then that’s wonderful, really!. If one wants to improve one’s circumstance further, then consider accepting best-intentioned advise. Soil microbial ecology. Microbes evolved along with the plants they sustain/interact with, meaning they too benefit from pH in the ‘optimal’ range. In a ‘controlled environment e.g. greenhouse Pests and diseases: Take every prevention precaution possible (too many to describe here). A common vector is humans: limit and pre-sanitize all visitors and workers. Monitor for any/all developing problems continuously and have appropriate remedy available immediately. A gram of prevention yields many kilos of cure. Use integrated pest management strategies extensively (employ beneficial insects, bacteria, and plants). Use insecticidal soaps (Potassium salts of fatty acids) and plant-based extracts with care (minimize/eliminate contact with filter substrate) Maintain air temperatures and humidity levels appropriate to the plant species being grown. Shade, fogging, evaporative cooling can each be effective for cooling, either individually or in various combinations. Always provide ample ventilation and continuous air movement within a greenhouse. Above May Not be stated the best way possible: Its just what keystrokes I activated this morning. Any remaining gaps, errors or omissions are not intentional and regrettable.(and correctable). Questions to ask yourself - OR better yet, to share your responses to here: Is your water ‘clean’ or is it contaminated? (e.g. nitrates, phosphates, pathogens, …) DO you have/use an inert, well-drained sand (sharp SiO2 preferred) DO you flood saturate and then leave drained on 2+/- cycle during the day? Are you maintaining ‘system’ (water) pH in the range preferred by plants for optimal growth? Above pH 7.0 is NOT recommended. Do you have a ‘balanced’ fish load and sustainable feed input rate? Are you growing nutrient demanding crops (solely lettuce is not advised)? If you answered Yes to ALL of the above questions, then congratulations … you’re amazing and quite unique. I say that in spite of the fact that I will always insist that AP is a disease. Some diseases are curable, others are not. You’re Welcome. ============ PS: Yes, I am fully aware that focusing on plant production (minimizing fish to plant ‘ratios’) is viewed as blasphemy by many, if not most, aqua-holics. This is not a concern I have. No one is attempting to prevent anyone from doing precisely whatever they feel like, be that rational or otherwise. Don’t freak out or invent fallacies. I am describing what iAVs was intended to do, aka how it ‘works best’ (to date). What anyone who is NOT literally doing/using iAVs “feels†about claims and goals thereof is irrelevant to me. Do it or don’t. Your choice. Your life. ....... BTW: Not seeing is not believing ... and vice-versa If you do undertake iAVs, then please accept our advice in the spirit intended. My/our intention is for you to realize the best outcome possible, with the greatest cost:benefit possible. There is and never has been anything (positive) ’in this’ for me. iAVs has always been exclusively about you (others). That is all. No fee, No exchange, No refund. No apology.
  3. Aquaponics Book Cover

    From the album Mr Bill's AP Book and System

    The front cover of the book 'Gotta Grow With Aquaponics" now available at Half.com and soon to be available at www.gottagrowaquaponics.com This book follows the installation of a brand new aquaponics system from clearing the dirt to set the foundation, on up to finishing a completed aquaponic system, including testing the water parameters and growing plants/feeding fish... all using off-the-shelf parts.

    © William Anderson

  4. OK, so I have a few questions. I have yet to set up a system. iI think i know what system I want to set up in my back yard, but I could Use some help. As this will be my first attempt, so i may not fully understand what is what as of yet. I'm thinking about setting up a simple IBC system. - How to i Select a pump? - Heating? could i run a copper pipe from my hot water heater? - what crops should i grow? - What would be a good fish to use in Santee/ lakeside area? - where could i get edible fish that will grow fast and taste good? - Do i need a permit for tilapia if i am non-commercial? - Where could i get some tilapia? - would bluegill be a good fish? - how do i run pluming???? <--- BIGGEST QUESTION FOR ME! I think this is it for now. Any help will go a long way, thank you.
  5. Hi All! This is my first post on an Aquaponics Forum! I am sort of new to Aquaponics. I have had my system for a few months now. Everything has been going fantastic until recently. Let me fill you in on the details! I have a small set up, about 15 gallons, with one small Koi and 5 small comet goldfish. In the grow bed I have only four herbs: basil, cilantro, oregano, and sage. Everything has been growing well and I get a pretty good harvest each Saturday from my herbs. However, I am having trouble with the plants now. The cilantro is looking less green than usual; it is more of a greenish-yellow now. The oregano is starting to become less green as well. The Sage is getting what look like little dry brown spots on the leaves (picture attached). The basil is yellowing on some leaves and getting dry brown spots as well (picture attached). The only thing that I can think of is maybe there is not enough nutrients in the water? Every time I test the water the pH, nitrite, and ammonia are always perfect. There are never any nitrates, though. So I figure the plants are eating up all the nutrients quickly and there aren't any left over. If this is the case, how do I fix it? Should I add more fish or feed the fish more? If you think this is something different, please let me know! I am worried that I might have to start with all brand new plants! Thank you so much for taking the time to help me with this! I look forward to hearing and trying your tips and advice! -Ahna
  6. After GaryD's discussion with me about our salt water fish preference in whats needed to get aquaculture more widespread I have been thinking about my attitude to vegies. Lately I have started asking other people to think about "what is waste" you know things like "we had zucchini's running out of our ears this year" or "the plum tree had a big crop and half of them fell on the ground". I ask them whats going to happen, is the govt going to deduct the cost of the zuc's from your tax refund or are the cops going to raid the place and charge you with "fruitacide" No of course not! So if the excess goes in the compost and gets recycled back onto the garden what is the problem? Where is the waste? You didnt buy it at the shop, the organic matter and nutrients will feed next years crop, you have more than you can eat, plant obviously grew well, worms and microbes had a munch on the residue, everybody is happy. And they are like but,but,but its not right with their bottom lip poking out? I was feeling pretty smug with my enlightened state of mind...... until this morning. Standing in the vegie patch looking at my beetroot it finally dawned on me that I havent planted nearly enough of the little blighters. I am going to run out in just a few weeks and be back to store bought ones. I have to admit i can think of no rational reason why I didnt plant more of them. Then I looked around and though, Oh hell, I am going to be short on chillies as well if I dont get my finger out and plant some extra. How did this happen? It has happened because I have a fence, and in my head inside the fenced area is vegetables and the rest of the large garden is everything else. The ridiculous thing is the vegie patch is less than half full, I have left room for......um......later? I have a star jasmin growing over a fence and pergola but no passionfruit or grapevine. A perfect spot for a couple of apples has never been used and grows nothing. I have sheltered brick walls that reflect heat back into garden beds and would be perfect for extending the growing season of a number of plants but I dont use it. I have no mint , garlic, lemongrass, coriander or chives, they are almost weeds that should be self seeding everywhere. Fact is, if anyone should have a permanent glut of fruit and vegies it is me. I have the water, plenty of room, nice dry enviroment, not a lot of fungal disease, no fruit fly, most things will grow with almost no care providing I compost and mulch properly. So what is my problem? How did I get to this point that I will lavish care on a strictly ornamental plant and practically shun a plant that bears an edible crop?
  7. Hello Aquaponics community. I'm a high school biology/chemistry teacher in Maryland (US). As a tool to help students learn and practice research skills I'm about to undertake a project to create a recirculating tank system in my lab. The students will be involved in every step from design/build to care/maintenance. Needless to say I've been doing a lot of research and this site has been very valuable. I don't have a ton of space in my room but the basic idea I have in my head is to have 3 different 55 gallon barrels of fish (two experimental and one control...don't worry, by experimental, I'm talking about growth rate on different types of foods and things like that, nothing to hurt the fish), a continuous flow bed for growing plants and two additional barrels for biological filtration. One barrel would be the typical aerobic bacterial barrel but for the second filtration barrel my goal is to create an anaerobic environment to capitalize on anammox bacteria. A couple of questions I'm looking to find information on...What kinds of alternative grow media have people used for the plants? Someone mentioned 100% Clay cat litter as a possibility but I'm not familiar with that would have concerns it would clump up. I'm looking for low cost but good results. Has anyone incorporated the anaerobic aspect into what they are doing? What kind of vegetables or plants in general grow best in a continuous flood system? Thanks in advance to any advice offered. I look forward to sharing our triumphs and struggles with the group. Derby