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Found 11 results

  1. My teacher ordered around 100 striped bass in a large recirculating tank. A few days after they arrived, maybe a week or so, they started dying. So far they we have got maybe 10-15 fish left. We can't seem to figure out what is happening. Please help. We aren't sure if they're sick, or what is going on. Need help asap.
  2. A very good post of what is IAVS was submitted recently by Dr. McMurtry. I felt it deserved it's own thread. VKN - and anyone else who may benefit/care: I’m going to attempt to smooth your ruffled feathers. I DO want very much for you - and everyone else - to succeed ‘beyond your wildest dreams’ (exceed expectations). If I didn’t, then I wouldn’t still be typing, or otherwise infecting APN with my demonic ‘attitude’ - or ‘putting up with’ hostile lying trolls. I hesitate to craft the definitive ‘definition’ of iAVs at this time, but I’ll ‘give a shot’ at listing what I consider to be the basic requirements: Water: fresh (non-saline), clear (non-turbid), non-polluted (no biological pathogens or ‘chemicals’, metals or nucleotides). Basically, potable water. Rain water is strongly advised for the vast majority of applications/locations. Its also free. (collect and store securely in advance of need). Sand: well-draining, no clay/slit, and chemically inert (does not raise or lower pH of water that comes into contact with it). We’ve been all over this topic in detail repeatedly. “Sand†is a specific range of particle size, not a specific material/mineral composition. Quartz (SiO2) is recommended if/where at all possible, but some other inert minerals and glasses may work well also. Others certainly will not. Operating beyond the scope of our recommendations is at the sole responsibility/risk of the operator(s). Furrows: on the sand surface to distribute ‘water/waste’ evenly across surface and also to keep aerial plant material dry. Pristine sand furrows are stabilized by bacterial films, detritus and/or alga. Attempt to maintain as much ridge area (mound between furrows) as wide as possible. Furrows include both between all rows of plants and around the entire perimeter. Flood/Drain: Saturate filter substrate and then allow it to drain completely once every 2 hours (approx.) during daylight. Leave drained overnight. In the tropics, first ‘cycle’ can begin somewhat pre-dawn and the last start at dusk (finish draining just after total darkness). Since drainage also occurs during the pumping interval, presuming sufficient drainage, one can pump 1/4 up to even one-half of a FT volume per cycle without reducing the FT volume by more than 10 to 15% at any given time. ‘Tank’ (fish containment), Its capacity, proportions, shape (especially bottom slope) and the pump type/location need combine (‘work together’) to effectively allow solids to settle, and collect in a region/zone that the pump will readily extract/remove when it comes on. Try to schedule irrigation volumes sufficient to exchange (turnover) the FT at least twice each day. More might be ‘better’ - which can be accomplished several ways (not described here to avoid confusion) but not recommended to do so by shortening the on cycle interval significantly. Fish/Feed: Sufficient fish biomass and feed input consumed to satisfy fish and generate sufficient ‘waste’ to fertilize the number and species of plants being grown - not feed/stocked more than the filter/microbes can process continuously. This will vary by fish species, age (size), density, DO, pH, Temp, of water, and feed composition/conversion. Do not feed in the evening (allow for complete tank volume exchange between the last feeding of each day and dark). Sustainable fish load and feed rate also varies somewhat depending on type of plant species grown (e.g. leaf vs fruiting) and somewhat on the stage of development/maturity. Too many fish eating too much feed and respiring too much TAN for the size of the biofilter bed in current use is not advised. One could get away with this in the short-term but not over the medium- or long-term. pH; iAVs is dominantly (90-95%) Horticulture - by mass and economic value in most markets). Maximal fish production is NOT a goal nor advised. Vascular plants strongly ‘prefer’ (grow best) in range of pH 5.5 to 6.8 (extremes) and optimally 6.4 +/- 0.4 (variance range depends n specific species). Believe it or not. If one is satisfied with the results of one’s efforts, then that’s wonderful, really!. If one wants to improve one’s circumstance further, then consider accepting best-intentioned advise. Soil microbial ecology. Microbes evolved along with the plants they sustain/interact with, meaning they too benefit from pH in the ‘optimal’ range. In a ‘controlled environment e.g. greenhouse Pests and diseases: Take every prevention precaution possible (too many to describe here). A common vector is humans: limit and pre-sanitize all visitors and workers. Monitor for any/all developing problems continuously and have appropriate remedy available immediately. A gram of prevention yields many kilos of cure. Use integrated pest management strategies extensively (employ beneficial insects, bacteria, and plants). Use insecticidal soaps (Potassium salts of fatty acids) and plant-based extracts with care (minimize/eliminate contact with filter substrate) Maintain air temperatures and humidity levels appropriate to the plant species being grown. Shade, fogging, evaporative cooling can each be effective for cooling, either individually or in various combinations. Always provide ample ventilation and continuous air movement within a greenhouse. Above May Not be stated the best way possible: Its just what keystrokes I activated this morning. Any remaining gaps, errors or omissions are not intentional and regrettable.(and correctable). Questions to ask yourself - OR better yet, to share your responses to here: Is your water ‘clean’ or is it contaminated? (e.g. nitrates, phosphates, pathogens, …) DO you have/use an inert, well-drained sand (sharp SiO2 preferred) DO you flood saturate and then leave drained on 2+/- cycle during the day? Are you maintaining ‘system’ (water) pH in the range preferred by plants for optimal growth? Above pH 7.0 is NOT recommended. Do you have a ‘balanced’ fish load and sustainable feed input rate? Are you growing nutrient demanding crops (solely lettuce is not advised)? If you answered Yes to ALL of the above questions, then congratulations … you’re amazing and quite unique. I say that in spite of the fact that I will always insist that AP is a disease. Some diseases are curable, others are not. You’re Welcome. ============ PS: Yes, I am fully aware that focusing on plant production (minimizing fish to plant ‘ratios’) is viewed as blasphemy by many, if not most, aqua-holics. This is not a concern I have. No one is attempting to prevent anyone from doing precisely whatever they feel like, be that rational or otherwise. Don’t freak out or invent fallacies. I am describing what iAVs was intended to do, aka how it ‘works best’ (to date). What anyone who is NOT literally doing/using iAVs “feels†about claims and goals thereof is irrelevant to me. Do it or don’t. Your choice. Your life. ....... BTW: Not seeing is not believing ... and vice-versa If you do undertake iAVs, then please accept our advice in the spirit intended. My/our intention is for you to realize the best outcome possible, with the greatest cost:benefit possible. There is and never has been anything (positive) ’in this’ for me. iAVs has always been exclusively about you (others). That is all. No fee, No exchange, No refund. No apology.
  3. A question was raised as to how pH effects fish growth. While the answer is likely species dependent, here is one study that shows growth to be similar at pH's many have argued are too low to grow fish at. I always feel it is good to question preconceived notions whether others, or our own. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0044848677901569 Anyone else has links to other studies, feel free to post them here.
  4. Aquaponics Book Cover

    From the album Mr Bill's AP Book and System

    The front cover of the book 'Gotta Grow With Aquaponics" now available at Half.com and soon to be available at www.gottagrowaquaponics.com This book follows the installation of a brand new aquaponics system from clearing the dirt to set the foundation, on up to finishing a completed aquaponic system, including testing the water parameters and growing plants/feeding fish... all using off-the-shelf parts.

    © William Anderson

  5. OK, so I have a few questions. I have yet to set up a system. iI think i know what system I want to set up in my back yard, but I could Use some help. As this will be my first attempt, so i may not fully understand what is what as of yet. I'm thinking about setting up a simple IBC system. - How to i Select a pump? - Heating? could i run a copper pipe from my hot water heater? - what crops should i grow? - What would be a good fish to use in Santee/ lakeside area? - where could i get edible fish that will grow fast and taste good? - Do i need a permit for tilapia if i am non-commercial? - Where could i get some tilapia? - would bluegill be a good fish? - how do i run pluming???? <--- BIGGEST QUESTION FOR ME! I think this is it for now. Any help will go a long way, thank you.
  6. My water temps have been 52-63 deg and I have been running my 300w heater constanly. the heater is not enough for my 450 gal system and why the temps stay low. I dont want to add another heater because of the cost to operate. Does anyone have a recommendation for a colder water fish (and where to purchase) for my system? Thanks.
  7. I am in the design phases of my first AP system and although I have a pretty good grasp of the options for the tanks, grow beds, etc but I am not sure what to do about the fish. Tilapia is what most people seem to be using in the US but we can't stand to eat it. We also don't like Trout or Catfish. We like Haddock, Cod, and some other "whitefishes" but those are all salt water fish as far as I know. I would prefer something editable but not sure what is a good fish to choose? I am currently in Maryland (USA) but looking to move this summer to Tennessee. What do you guys suggest? Thanks Robert
  8. I need some serious help with my new system. I started the system about 2 months ago and had cycled it almost properly, only when still ammonia level was dropping but still high I added fish... Anyway, for about 4 weeks after cycling I run the system without growbeds, only 2 IBC fishtanks and a 400Gallon sump with a 3 stage filtersystem(swirl filter, brush filter, moving media filter K1, each of them in a 55gallon barrel). 3 weeks ago I added 5 IBC growbeds to the system and about a week ago then the fish started to show white grainy deposits on their dorsal fin, after taking a closer look the fins are rotting away. Some deaths already occurred. There are about 150 sunfish up to 5" in size and about 5 goldfish. The system is contains about 1000gallons of water. I don't know the water tempreture... I run a test while writing this post and the last picture shows the results. I've found information on "Ich" and finrot, but I have no idea what it is and how to treat, or what to do. Unfortunately I was traveling in the last 2 weeks and have no information on how much feed they got. Do you have any idea what it is and how to stop it? I appreciate any help!
  9. Hi! I am in the eastern suburb of Melbourne. I am going to order some fish feed from www.grobest.com.au. If anybody is interested to pool some orders together, we can save the delivery cost together. Have a look at their website and let me know what you want. Minimum order for a pallet delivery is 10 bags of 20kgs feed. From memory, delivery for 10 bags is about the same as delivery for 4 bags from Grobest to Melbourne. I can have the pallet delivered to a business in Springvale where they have a fork lift to unload the pallet and then you can either pick up from Springvale or close to where I live in Templestowe/Doncaster East. I am putting in my order in about 6 weeks (end of Nov).
  10. for many years in tropical fish growing them in concrete ponds i have gain a better understanding on how bio bacteria,algie works. for the past few years i have build a backyard aquaponic system in which i grew lettuce,cucumber, tomato in a small space.Presently i have cucumber and tomato flowering and some green ones.
  11. Gary: This is an EMERGENCY! I have a 300 gallon tank that the levels just won't seem to come down. For the past three days the readings remain the same no matter what I add to the tank. Here are the reading as of 1 hour ago: PH: 8.1 Ammonia: .50 ppm Nitrite: 2.0 ppm Nitrate: 20 ppm Water Temp: 64.5 deg F Greenhouse Temp: 78 def F Humidity: ~40 pct Inside that troublesome tank are 2 Rainbow trout about 14" each and 3 largemouth bass (4 - 8 inches each). I am using two 4" air stones and I have mechanical filtration using bio balls. I added the appropriate amount of Microbe-Lift Nite Out II and Microbe Lift PL. I also did a 10 percent water change and still the numbers have not changed. Here is what I plan to do, so please advise: 1. I have another tank that have cycled that has a few gold and mosquito fish. I want to move the fish them to that tank. 2. Do a 50 percent water change 3. Clean and recycle the tank 4. Do nothing and wait a few days and see if the Microbe solution kicks in 5. Your suggestion!