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Found 7 results

  1. Just got introduced to iAV system for Aquaponics. Could someone tell us whether one needs a bio filter with sand or its works like one and we can avoid having a bio filter completely. How does one calculate the size for a bio filter for say 3000 ltr tank with 60 fishes each around .5kg.
  2. Moving Bed Bio Media ON SALE $29.99 (reg $34.99) per cubic foot http://alliedaqua.com/moving-bed-bio-media.html Chris has about a thousand cubic feet of this in stock right now, and he's priced it to move. I don't think you'll be able to find a better price anywhere. He gave me some to try out a month or two ago, and I really like it. I'm picking up 20 cubic feet from him for a project. It's like kaldnes K1, but has a bit more surface area, and 2 more internal supports.
  3. I am in the planning stage of a new RAS. I have been reading my Small Scale Aquaculture book and it has answered a few of my unknowns. It has also raised some new questions. Having had an aquaponics system running for a little over 2 years, I thought I knew what I was getting into. Nope, this is a new game. So, now I am wondering what to use as a bio-filter. Van Gorder suggest that his RBC is the way to go with a 2000 gallon pool, but he uses 2 55 gallon clarifiers. I am thinking of using a 12 ft. (2000 gal.) above ground pool to raise blue tilapia in central Florida. I was planning on using a 55 gallon radial flow filter for the solids, a 150 gallon Skippy filter for the ammonia and nitrites and a separate tank growing duckweed for the nitrates. My main objective is to avoid water changes. What do you guys think?
  4. I have been searching the web for information on using biochar as a biological filter media. There are dozens of posts for Koi ponds that refer to charcoal as a chemical filter, but not biological. Here is my line of thinking: I can easily produce bichar on my farm with my retort in large quantities Biochar works great as a grow bed media It's close to neutral buoyancy It contains trace wood vinegar elements that may help micororganisms (this is true for microorganisms in the ground... not sure if the same holds true for AP). At any rate, wood vinegar exists only when you prematurely stop the pyrolysis. I wouldn't chance it though... Would burn to completion. It has a massive surface area It can be reused as biochar (in the traditional manner) of putting it in the ground after service in the AP system Please note that I am not referring to "activated carbon," nor am I referring to it in a powdered form. I'm thinking of pieces around 5mm. It seems that activated charcoal, used as a chemical filter, only lasts a few weeks before needing to be replaced (not convenient). But if it was used to help facilitate a colony of nitrifying bacteria, I don't see why this wouldn't work. Again, charcoal chunks have already proved to be successful in grow beds. My aquaponic set-up is a bit unique. Here is the basic system (not yet assembled): I recently acquired 120 5-gallon food-grade buckets for an amazing 50 cents (US) a piece I'll use 24 of these for long-term food storage, and the other 96 as miniature grow beds I'm only planting large plants, or plants with extensive root systems in the buckets (i.e. tomatoes, peppers, etc.) Smaller plants/veggies will go in a traditional gravel grow bed, and at least 1 DWC for lettuce Each bucket will be coated with marine-grade epoxy, and wrapped with twine (for added rigidity, UV protection, insulation, and aesthetic reasons) With the bucket system, the grow bed media will be 50-70% reduced (so, less of a home for bacteria) as they would if I planted them in a traditional bed. 12 buckets will be plumbed together to create one "unit" A simple 2" bulkhead fitting will act as a drain (no stand pipe). I'm going big here so that the 12 units can freely equalize their respective water levels before the outside siphon kicks in A plastic screen, formed into a cone shape will act as a media guard for the drains. (still worried that smaller worms may still get sucked away... any suggestions?) The 12 buckets will connect to a larger PVC pipe, which in turn will connect to an Affnan-style swivel valve siphon There will be a total of 8 units, with 12 buckets in each unit 5,000 gallon, above-ground pool as the fish tank Sump, vortex filter, and biofilter (see below) I'm planning on pre-filtering the solids with a , before sending the water to the biofilter. I need some fish solids to get through in order to provide food for the worms in the buckets. I just don't want a massive amount of solids. A 50-60% reduction would be ideal (at least this is my thinking). For the DWC, I'll route the plumbing to an extra mechanical filter for that bed alone.Here is my tentative plan of attack for the biofilter: I'll produce the biochar from hardwood in my double 55-gallon steel retort I'll crush the char using a type of mortar and stone technique in another steel drum I'll screen the biochar through a 1/8 inch sieve/sifter to remove any powder I should be left with 4-7mm size pieces I'm using a 275 gallon IBC tote with 4 large air stones (discs) at the bottom I'll fill the tote to 80% biochar (yes, it's a lot of char and ill take several burns to get this amount) I'll top it off with well water In short, I don't want to go spend hundreds of dollars on fancy media... I am not against using sponges, PVC shavings, shredded bottle caps, or any other low cost alternative if biochar doesn't work... But that is the big question. Why wouldn't it? Any feedback, words of wisdom, constructive criticism, etc. is greatly appreciated. Thank you! - BigDaddy
  5. for many years in tropical fish growing them in concrete ponds i have gain a better understanding on how bio bacteria,algie works. for the past few years i have build a backyard aquaponic system in which i grew lettuce,cucumber, tomato in a small space.Presently i have cucumber and tomato flowering and some green ones.
  6. Where is the cheapest place to buy Kaldnes K1 media shipped to Florida?
  7. Should I try to double the use of the sump tank and also make it a moving bed filter with K1? It would mean not having to build and plum a trickle filter. I guess the air added to the sump to move the k1 should add DO into the system. The pump would also be dropping water into the Fish tank. I could also put air in the fish tank as well but with a waterfall I'm not sure it's needed. I think all I need to make a standard sump/pump a moving bed bio filter is k1 media and a divider to keep the k1 out of the pump. Let me know what you think.