Cecil

Moderators
  • Content count

    2896
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Cecil

  1. Wow I didn't know that. I'd love to get some of their stuff cheap!
  2. That would work IanK but I was running 60,000 gallons of borehole water through the pond a day! Here's a Russian invention for removing high amounts of iron from large quantities of water. It says, "The system itself has no pumps, no compressors, and no electrical, rotating or moving parts - virtually nothing to go wrong. Backwash is hydro-automatic - i.e. is controlled by levels of water in the system. Only 0.8 to 1.6 % of daily water flow is used for backwashing - depending on the initial levels of iron." http://www.deferum.com/what-is-deferum.html
  3. I was told by a professor that I could get rid of the iron by running it through a ditch with a lot of grass, but of course it would also get too warm in the summer for the trout pond.
  4. In my trout pond I did believe something else was up taking iron more than could account for just settling. I have to wonder if the extensive Chara and/or iron bacteria was doing that. Came in at about 2.5 mg/l. Early in the year before the water got into the upper 50's F. (14 to 16 C.) the pond would read about 1.5 mg/l but later in the summer it would hang around 0.5 mg/l. That led me to believe that was because the Chara was more extensive later in the year and or the iron bacteria was more active in the warmer water. Could be. I had trout farmer tell me that Chara loves well (borehole) water.
  5. Actually you may not be far off. I seem to remember something about using electricity to collect clump iron based on electron charges. The easiest way to remove iron in the water is to aerate it vigorously by several different means (it only takes .15 mg.l of oxygen) which causes the iron to precipitate in what was otherwise crystal clear water. You can either then filter out the iron, run it over a surface it will adhere to, or allow it to settle. For some reason my iron takes much longer to settle out than the text books say. And with the 45 gpm I was flowing into the trout pond, it wasn't feasible. Too much water and it would have warmed outside during the summer as the iron was settling so it wasn't practical. If I ran it into a pond and allowed it to flow into another it did drop to about 0.5 mg/l but the water would warm about 10 degrees by the time it got to the second pond.
  6. Makes sense to me. I hear that brown color is tannins from the feed in systems where they feed a lot and push them to the limit. Yeah AES has some cool stuff. A little overpriced but really cool. I'm convinced I could build a lot of the stuff they sell if I put my mind to it, and I will. Edit: Turns out the brown color can be produced even without pushing the carrying capacity to the limit. At least that's the case with me. I've been told the particular feed I use has a propensity to do that.
  7. It would be funny if it wasn't so sad. Many anglers are really ignorant. I love the ones that pat themselves on the back for releasing everything. They think because the fish swims off it will be fine. Of course those of us that raise fish know that's not necessarily the case, as stress can be cumulative and a fish can croak several days after the stress event. As a fish taxidermist I get calls from lake residents wanting to know if they can mount a big musky (Esox masquinongy) that has washed up on their beach. Probably fish someone patted themselves on the back for releasing. Typically the lake residents don't have a fishing license so they can't possess it, or the fish is so putrid I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.
  8. I'm using regular household ammonia to start the nitrification cycle in a strictly fish RAS at this point in time. I was told in a text to use non-detergent ammonia. The bottle says a surfactant has been added. Is this the same thing as detergent and if so what do I need to do? Do I need to find some ammonia without a surfactant and drain the tank and start all over? I've been adding a little periodically to keep NH3 at about 3.0 mg/l.
  9. Planning on it. I've been told that now by three fish farmers including a professor. I waiting for the water to warm up (it comes out of the well at 51.6 F.) and my iron filter isn't working very well anymore. Upon refill and oxidation water is brown and tests out at 1.71 mg/l iron. I know it will settle in a few days but the water soften company has been notified and they will come out and replace the filter. At this rate it will be ready for fish come spring!
  10. I'm disappointed why you're not getting a response. Lots of good knowledge on this site.
  11. You're absolutely right but I think I saw one used in freshwater the other day in an RAS set up for brook trout. I'll have to look again. From what I gather it's imperative to get the water cleaner in an RAS for the trout than most other species. I do know from personal experience their gills get irritated easier than my other species of fish. Makes excellent sense. Why use electricity when you can make gravity work for you. I use that principal in my outdoor ponds. The well (borehole) is at the highest point of the property and I can move the well water anywhere I want for filling or flow through by opening and closing underground gate valves at junctions of 4 inch PVC buried underground. I'm looking forward to reading the book you are sending me. Sounds like lots of good information.
  12. You're asking the wrong guy on that. I just built my first RA system and I'm in the learning phase. Ask me about ponds and I'm pretty confident. Indoor systems I'm in the learning phase. Hopefully someone else like Gary or the others will chime in for you.
  13. James, How about a stock watering tank (not galvanized) or one of their rubbermaid containers they sell at the farm supply stores? You might be surprised at how cheap they can be. Or how about growing out your talapia in 55 gallon drums? You can usually get plastic ones at the farm supply stores too. Just make sure you clean them out well. Here are plans for a classroom tilapia system that consists of two 55 gallon drums. http://www.aces.edu/dept/fisheries/education/documents/ConstructingSmRASForclassroom-SRAC4501.pdf
  14. And they tolerate low oxygen and high ammonia better than most of our fish species. They just can't take cold temperatures. On another note I made the mistake of saying how good they were at reducing algae on a fishing website here. Next thing I know I was berated with, "We don't need no more exotic fish here!" I told they wouldn't be a problem in the northern third of the U.S. as they coudn't survive the winters, and I was referring to private ponds anyway. It didn't matter and soon some pathoglogical liar came on and said they had survived under the ice at the university he had attended and studied fisheries at. Of course that was totally false, and when I asked him what university he attended and who his prof was I got nothing. Needless to say I decided to avoid the thread.
  15. It makes sense since most parts of your continent have the temperatures to sustain them (unless I'm wrong) and they could muscle out the natives as they are quite a tenacious species. In most of our country (USA) temps get cold enough in the winter to kill them. Even the extreme southern parts of the country occasionally get some freakish cold weather.
  16. http://northernaquafarms.com/phpbb/index.php I just registered yestrday, I'm activated, and even logged in, but when I try and access the open forum I get the following message: Sorry, but only users granted special access can read topics in this forum. i know we Americans aren't liked but some Canadians but I dont' think that is it. I've emailed the site administrator with no response yet but perhaps I need to be patient. BTW this site is the best and I have no intentions of leaving. It's just that it would be fun to see what our neighbors in the north are doing with colder water RAS and Aquaponics. I do know they are growing out Arctic Char (Salvelinus alpinus) in their systems up there. Here is a link to some aquaculture and aquaponics they do up there: http://www.northernaquafarms.com/
  17. Some say they are obsolete. However I see this as gaining valuable experience so I can make intelligent decisions in the future to decide what system would be better for me for a possible commercial system. And like you said it's much cheaper to build things yourself. I've been looking at protein skimmers and don't see why one could not make one of those too.
  18. Just a note Kellenw, cutting the pipes wasn't so bad with a chop saw. It was cutting the 50 fiberglass circles that was a nightmare! I would strongly advise getting a bandsaw! I may end up building two or three more and joining them together as in this system in the book Small Scale Aquaculture. If so I WILL have a bandsaw! Don't know of a source for white bass. I know where you can catch a boatload of wild fish but most likely you couldn't bring them into Missouri due to it being in a Great Lakes state and the VHS threat. Did you contact any suppliers of hybrid striped bass and ask if they would sell you any white bass? Have you tried talking to a biologist named Bobby Glennon of Malone and Sons in Arkansas? The guy answered a lot of my questions for me when he had no ulterior motive. He's the one that has experimented with Magnolia crappie, triploid crappie etc. Malone and Sons were the first to come out with triploid grass carp.
  19. I haven't done anything with talipia YET, but I will vouch for both kellenw and Rainman as I know them from another website and have personally talked to Rainman over the phone. Isn't it impressive to see to potential competitors say nice words about each other. You don't always see that!
  20. Here is where I messed up and it caused me some grief. I drilled some of the alignment holes in line with the marks that were originally made by the protractor to set the positions of the paddle wheels. I should have redrawn lines perfectly perpendicular of each other instead to form a cross. As I rotated each piece of fiberglass 90 degrees they didn't align perfectly and I had to make the holes larger in the fiberglass for them to fit. I love the pattern the PVC pieces that produced the paddles made though. Here's a close up of the RBC itself although it is temporarily backwards on the frame. (Hey I was learning ) At that point I was just happy to get the thing completed! The paddles are in the middle. Here is the frame minus the filter itself. The frame actually floats somewhat and the RBC ideally submerges about half way or slightly less initially before the bacteria film weights it down. I had to suspend the frame over my tank as the tank is less than half of the diameter of what it should have been. This RBC was designed for a 12 diameter swimming pool. It's supposed to be able to handle over 100 pounds of fish and has 600 square feet of surface area. This RBC is essentially the same one that was used in the Biosphere II project in Arizona years ago.
  21. Get with me before you cut some of the PVC pieces. There are some minor errors in the book due to changing from one model to the next but the changes were not made in the book. I.e. you need to cut the paddles out of 4 inch PVC vs. 3 inch., and some of the frame measurements given are incorrect. But still the book is worth its weight in gold. Also don't even think of cutting the fiberglass roofing without a bandsaw. I used a hand held jig saw and I went through not only several blades but it was really really hard work that way! Also it's imperative that your 4 allignment holes are perfectly square from each other. Otherwise you will have problems when you rotate each piece of fiberglass 90 degrees. I made the mistake of using a line that was part of the angles and was slightly off. It made for problems although it all turned out fine in the end. I'm sending a copy to Gary to do an overview. I've never sent anything down under. This is exciting! One more thing: There have been some outrageous prices listed for the book on the net. You shouldn't have to pay over 25 or 30 U.S. dollars for it. Amazon.com has some copies and I've seen some copies for sale just under 20 U.S. dollars.
  22. I'm back again after a brief visit at least a year ago. I finally build an RAS with plans to learn as much as I can about them to move on to bigger and better systems. I also have an interest in Aquaponics as I might as well do something with those excess nitrates eh? If you want to see my start up learning RAS I just build it's here in the Aquaculture systems category. Oh I'm in a town and state of Ligonier, Indiana in the USA.
  23. The mink is no more. He was eliminated as soon as he was spotted. Here is a link to where I'm selling them -- much less than if they were bigger: http://www.taxidermytalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1015
  24. I know a prof that gets them to a pound in 10 months in an RAS indoors. I have 3 year olds over a pound and they were outside during the winter hence no growth in the winter.