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Everything posted by Moses

  1. Hello guys, how is it going? i am updating my test system stats again. my ph sits at 6.4, it dropped to 5.6 a few days ago and i added potash and egg shell to push it up to 6.4 TDS is at 560PPM and water temp is 28C iron is good didnt add any chelated for quite sometimes, ammonia and no2 is not detected using sera, no3 is more than 100ppm per litre, it was at 75 so i bump the feeding times to twice a day. the vegetable is growing rapidly as the picture below show when compared to my last post. I am excited, suppose me and my mom will harvest it in 2 days when my dad gets back here. I have also made a small wicking bed for my ginger, it was shipped for 3 days in package when i unpack it the shoot is dying and the root is brown but now i can see new shoot coming up and the root is starting to ligthen up. The wicking bed media is 16cm above the water level whereas the water level is 7cm above surface. I have also added a worm bin to make compost tea, bought the cocoon. Initially i wanted to buy esenia fetida but no one here sold it, we only have lumbricus but the seller told me it was mixed with the eisenia fetida. few hatched but now i cant see them i suppose they burried to eat the coco peat soil mix first as they are only 1cm long.
  2. Hello guys, it has been awhile since my last post. I promised that i would post pic of my aquaponic system when i fixed a better filter. My current one consist of: 1 plastic container used for 12 koi fish 1 plastic container for water bed 1 barrel for filter wood frame to hold the lightings and to lift the filter tank and the water tank pvc pipe for water flow 1 water pump 2 aeration devices 1 styrofoam to hold the netpots 300-350 liters of water the romanian lettuce is 2 weeks old ( i read online that it will take 75 100 days for it to fully mature since its not crisphead type ) and the germinated bak choy seed is just 3 days old. I also bought noy bai that i will start planting after the bak choy netpot is inserted into the hole. the flow is pretty simple, the water pumps from the fish tank to the filter, the water swirls, fills from bottom up then there is pieces of filter cloth stopping solids from flowing into the water bed and from the water bed flow back to the fish tank. the only problem i have now is the bubbles that are covering the whole surface of filter and fish tank, i read about it online and the only thing i get is the water is rough cause of the surface / water solid? I dont even understand what that mean. It wasnt there before i introduced the water bed and added 100 liters of water, but i doubt that was the cause. The end of the pipe i used for the water to flow into the water bed and fish tank is T shaped socket so the top let the air flow in and fall together with the water. since i saw venturi style pipe flow i thought that could help with the DO level.
  3. Hello guys, here is an update on my plant along with a picture, sorry if it isnt so clear since i dont know why its like that. the middle plant is 3 weeks and a few days old and the other is only 2 weeks old. I see a big improvement on the growth after adding iron and grow lights plus foliage spraying magnesium sulfate water mix. Algae kept growing on the plant roots while i keep removing them to let them sink to the bottom. I dont know whether the algae is helpful to the plant roots or not in term of sucking nutrients. I also dont know what kind of algae it is. The pak choy although doesnt grow quite good to the eye since it seems to grow stem in a random manner, has leaf bigger and thicker than the one i see in the market. The No3 dropped 30%. I am trying to make compost tea hoping it will boost the growth and also help the system to cope with the plant needs. I think its going great aside from few technical and equipment issues, what do you guys think?
  4. Can someone please tell me what this is? its seems slimy but on hand it is not as slimy as it seems. It only grows in my grow bed and not in my filter tank or fish tank.
  5. Mr.Bigdaddy, i have seen quite a few videos about wicking bed and have read quite a few writings including the link that you send but there is just one thing that i did not quite understand. where should the drainage pipe be. is it below the geotextile fabric or above the geotextile fabric (the medium / fabric that separates the water + media and the soil)?. if it is above the fabric, wont the soil clog the drainage pipe? if it is below will the water keep the fabric wet enough for the wicking to work? few sources i have seen says that the best depth for wicking would 30cm deep soil, any more than that the wicking wont work that well, i have also read post of people claiming that there is no need to use the geotextile, just soil top down is fine. i will be trying those both but i just need to understand the position of drain pipe, is it below (covered by) the geotextile or above the geotextile meaning it is in the soil. Yes i will check the nitrates reading more often. i have not seen anything wrong with the fish, they are eating good, no matter how much i put in they will just gobble it up 10 to 20 minutes later and asking for more. the water is clear but a little red color since i added chelated iron and my fish feed somehow give off red color and high phosphate. i plant to add a round air stone that will sit at the bottom of my filter tank so they will aerate and help break down the solid fish waste, i have read few reading claiming that it helps but i dont know for sure, is this true? since my airstone kept floating in the middle or to the water surface which is tedious as to having to move them to the bottom everytime. I have also intended to add a seeding rack which have grow light sitting just 3cm or 4cm above the net pot before moving them to the system, as i read it helps so that the plant wont be leggy or spindly, it helps to keep the plant level. my plant has stalk that is about 1,5cm or 2cm which is indeed shorter than before adding the grow light. i have also noticed that after adding the light, the plant which is about 1 week already has roots in the water is i think is a good sign. do you think this is a good addition? i appreciate the help and explanation sir.
  6. Hello Mr.Bigdaddy. Yes i am currently planting 20 plants but i doubt that is enough. Due to space related issues i cant really add more grow bed as that requires more piping. But i intend to add a wicking bed to plant ginger, since its a wicking bed it wont need a reflow, i just add water by hand to it when the water level is low. Does this works?
  7. Hello Mr.Bigdaddy. This is my current reading: Water level is 500 liter Fe Iron 1,0mg/l = 500ppm Ammonia 0.003mg/l = 1,5ppm No2 0,0mg/l No3 >100mg/l = lots of ppm TDS 460ppm temp 27C i think this is a good reading, what do you think sir?
  8. Thanks for the kind advice Mr. Jake. I was dousing in some egg shell (8pcs of egg) for organic calcium. And the pH did raise to 6.8 so i removed the egg bag. If i kept it above 7 the plant will be deficient in magnesium later on.
  9. I just got my tds and ph meter, tried measuring it, my pH sit still at 6.6 and TDS is 442ppm, which is good reading i think? somehow liquid test ph came out with color of 6 and Carbonate hardness and general hardness from sera yield no result.
  10. Since installing the Grow lights, i have seen major growth on my pak choi. It was a left over from mu 30 watts red and blue light. Since then i added more pak choi and noi bai to see how it is.
  11. Finally its done guys, a diy grow lights with 81 watts, it should be 102 watts but fried a few of them. I hope the plants will grow well and better than last time, since i am really betting on this. I had put quite lot of money, effort, time and heart on this test. Im gonna update often now since the lights is up now only the growth remains. I hope you guys will help me out as always.
  12. Hello everyone it has been a long time since my update... so i have been doing a diy grow lights but i have met with some technical issues that even now i cant resolve. I felt very frustrated. the led seller did offer some assitance over whatsapp but did not resolve the problem either... so here are 3 serial/series wiring led. 2 types of white x9 660mn red x8 455mn x9 i burned few leds in the process. The wiring also became messy as some technical issue due to the seller did not tell me that the forward current of the lights differ. Now the problem i am facing is with the blue lights... 3 lit - 4 not litting - 2 lit. It is series wiring how can it be possible? Please do help if you have an idea how to resolve. Below are 2 pictures with all the lights on and one more with only blue lights on.
  13. Sad news, after i added the chelated iron, the plant still died this morning. too bad, interestingly i found out that the algae only grow by the grow bed, not in the filter tank or the fish tank. maybe i will replant after i installed the 100w LED lights and clean the grow bed as well. The algae is probably toxic for the plant.
  14. I am sorry to hear what has occurred Mr.Joe, what happened? Yes, i think when i first started the fish tank there were no No2 & No3 then after a while there was a huge spike on the test for No2&No3 but now the reading of No2 is very low and very high on No3. the good news for me is that the degradation of the leaves is not progressing so fast, fish is not dying at all and still eating normally. Next to that, my aluminum plate has arrived along with the chelated iron ( FeEDDHA ). now i just need to wait until my aluminum plate is done being drilled for attaching the heat sink then i can DIY the LED lights and for the epsom salt (for magnesium) to arrive. After adding the iron, i tested the Ph, i think it sits at 6 or 7, i cant be sure as there is no color for 6.5. but the color surely isnt 7 or 6 to be exact when compared. Additionally i have also found out that my well water contain a little bit of phospates (Po4) and the very high contain of Po4 in my system is due to the fish feed! i tried soaking the test water and the Po4 test spiked. i do hope it is okay, and i think i am gonna alternate between pellets and lenma minor from time to time. regarding the lenma i have read that the wet lenma is actually very low in protein vs the dry lenma. can anyone confirm this?
  15. Yes sure Mr.Bigdaddy. this result were taken just now. No2 = 0,0mg No3= 100mg/l Fe=0,1mg/l Kh= 5dkh Gh = 8dgh Po4 = way out of the chart Temp = 24-25c Ph = 7-8 unfortunately i dont have ammonia test kit since the test liquid bottle i bought was empty inside.
  16. That'd be great if i can actually bring it to harvest! But now i have new problem. The leaf appears yellowish, and sign of rotting can be seen. The third picture shows the rotting eating away the leaves. checked the root, it appears healthy. White colored, solid and not watery. i tried adding pottasium hydroxide (KoH) flakes, i also want to add iron, i think its deficient in iron since i just checked, my fish food doesn't contaion iron but it doesn contain lots of protein. can anyone please help?
  17. Mr.Jake, if the system is not cycled then how is it possible that i have readings for no2 and high no3 ? Is it because of the faulty sera test?
  18. I believe i have posted picture on the first page, there is still no major addition at the moment other than adding aeration below the grow bed since i am having a hard time trying to find aluminium plate. I have to order it online. Without it, i cant install my 100watts grow light. My grow bed size is 45x55x40, its deep enough right? hello everyone just an update. so i have decided to put the styrofoam on the water rather than hanging it above the water. The growth of lettuce is great but the pak choy growth is stunned, i suspect again its the light. Below also i have posted picture of the lettuce and pak choy. i have also posted picture of my water test. I am using SERA. 1. Nitrites = very low 2. Nitrates = the highest on the color chart 3. Phosphates = the number went over the provided color chart 4. Iron = there is no iron at all since the color didnt change 5. Carbonate hardness = none, since the water is suppose to change from blue green then yellow but it didnt 6. Total hardness = it changes to green at about 12 drops There are one question that i hope someone can help with, 1. I am trying to germinate my romaine lettuce. I tried with damp towel, direct sowing into moist coco peat and soaking it. But all three yield the same result. Its not germinating. The seed splitted revealing the core but thats it! So can someone please help me regarding this matter? I searched the net for the solution, and it mostly get result from marijuana forum. They suggest scarification using sand paper at 200. But there are others that says the seed need warm tempt to germinate. I am confused as to why the lettuce wont germinate, i planted before and it did germinate but now no matter what method i try its not germinating.
  19. Amazon has them. Try searching for it. I am currently using SERA. But will switch to digital. Try yout local online market website if your area doesnt accept amazon
  20. Hello Phri, I dont have a garden nor a backyard so i must grow indoor, i do have a balcony and empty space at rooftop but the problem is i cant control what goes in to my system and not to mention my neighbour raises cat, seesh wonder what will happen to my fish.. Most city now use LED, even malls and shop houses uses them nowadays. Just an update, after adding 30 watts of light, i can see the differences - plants grow much more faster and are straightening up - pak choy that was germinated before the light was installed still has no root showing at the bottom of the net pot - pak choy that i just germinated after the light was installed, for 1 week already had roots at the bottom and the leave is much more greener and stronger - the romanian lettuce has grown with greener and darker leaves color the new DIY LED hasnt arrive yet so i can install it as i can see the lights is still missing, the wattage i am aiming for is 99 watts (overall wattage) although that might not be a true value when installed. 5x - 3W High Power Led 730nm GROW FAR-RED IR Emitter Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 4x - 3W High Power Led 3.200K WARM Emitter 210-220lm EpiSTAR NO.PCB 4x - 3W High Power Led 6.500K WHITE Emitter 200-230lm Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 660nm PLANT GROW RED Emitter 90-110lm Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 450-455nm GROW BLUE Emitter 40-45lm Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 940nm INFRA-RED IR Emitter Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 420nm ULTRA-VIOLET UV Emitter Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB i have a few question 1. when should i put the netpot with germinated plant ( 3 days after sprouting) to the raft? 2. i have seen people let the raft float and some that says leave the raft on top of the water with few inches gap between them so the roots can grow into the water themselves and has oxygen, which is better? 3. do i need to water my germinated plant (3 days old/just sprouted) if i hadn't been placed in the raft? 4. i cant seem to germinate anymore lettuce. i tried to put the seed in the net pot with wet coco peat but the seed did split open still nothing sprouted after 5 days. does anybody know why? it is the same batch as the lettuce i germinated before. is it because i didn't soak the bottom with water?
  21. That is a lot of led bulb, seems to be each line is only for 3 or for lettuce, 5 straight line of led bulb for a square meter? it seems i need to add more light, 50 watts seems to be not enough for a square meter. The plant is not being stimulated enough, although they start growing upright already. I think what you said is true Mr.Joe, too much light and few article i read suggest heat stimulate the lettuce to produce seed too quickly. i will add more light via DIY grow light, after I successfully done it, will post more pict.
  22. Mr. Joe, with regards to excessive lights for plant, i read that plant will have a certain light saturation point where the amount of lights produced exceeded the amount of how much the plant need, few articles say that it is 500 micromoles, like this one: alternatively i have posted screen shot of the section. There is also an article that has lots of calculation that seemed like gibberish to me, maybe you can see whether it is right or not. there is also information using chart to compare the spectrum pf different kinds of light
  23. Mr. Jack Levi, i dont think i can buy T5 here, also is it fluorescent lights?
  24. Thanks Mr.Joe, i have read your article and several others, most seems to suggest that OLED/LED lights are better than others type of light due to : 1. Better capability in producing specific spectrum according to Chlo-a and Chlo-b PAS. 2. Doesnt require high wattage to give proper lumens to the plants 3. Last longer and doesnt really need to be maintained 4. Doesnt burn the plants and rise the room temprature thus needing cooling means extra cost what you have said is true also regarding the required wattage. Most suggest 60watt to 150watt per square meter. however i still have two things that i am not quite sure how im suppose to do. 1. One of the article that i read suggest that each plants require different light intensity and some kind of plant like lettuce do better when the gap between the plant and the light is 30cm away. 2. The plant needs down time after 18 hours of light time, meaning we should turn the light off after 18 hour and turn it on again after 4 hour so each day we need only give lights for about 18 hour. please tell me your opinion. Also the light that i ordered has arrived as shown in the picture below. The middle one is 30 watt and the left and right one are both 3 watt blue lights, 3 led bulb per light. Been using for days and the plant stalk seems to be thicker and stronger, leaf are growing faster. However some youtube video suggested that it should be replanted as it is highly unlikely the plant will grow / mature healthly in term of shape. I have ordered 1 more 30 watt light lile the middle one, so i think this grow bed should have enough lights already. i have also seen some people used aluminium foil behind and the sides of the grow bed so the light refract back to the middle giving it maximum exposure thus no waste. What do you think about this method, is it worth a try? Since i dont have means to measure how much lumens is exposed to the plant already, if it is enough then adding it is pointless, the plant wont need extra lights. (lots of bak choy died due to lack of lights)
  25. Mr.Joe can you give me link so that i can learn about grow lights? Grow light seems to be the most part that i cant understand because most i read doesnt explain much detail into grow light like you does, i am still confused how is "white light" is considered full spectrum that covers red blue and other colors, also i have found supplier that sells diy lights, but it seems i still havent found store that provide assembled grow lights like the one you just posted, other than the diy. Is there any link also to learn about diy lights assembly?