Moses

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About Moses

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    Advanced Member

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  • Biography
    Not much to tell, i am a first timer looking to learn aquap(h)onic. i am looking forward to turn it into a family commercial system to help my family financial problems.
  • Interests
    Computers, philosophy, arts, music and basically everything i can get my hands on

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  • Location
    Indonesia

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  1. probably this is what i need to try since the vegetable is not being eaten and it kept growing bigger and taller
  2. that is a blister rust, it should be powdery right? yet mine is not powdery at all, i notice the pigmentation of the leaves change to these color, some people suggest it might be sunburn / frost damage, which i think it might be sunburn. maybe 14 hour on the LED is too much after the leaves has fully grown.
  3. Its a pak choi but i dont know what varieties this is, its grown with LED and yes both sun light and led receive the same nutrition with only the difference being the amount of fish, all water parameters is ok. cant really measure the amount of light received, since i do not have PAR meter and Lux meter. Temp of water is the same for both. daytime growbed on outside is considerably hotter while at night time the indoor LED is a little bit warmer.
  4. Hi Mr,Ande, thank you so much but i actually tried that app before its just too bad that i didnt see picture with the same problem as above.
  5. hello guys, it has been a long time since i updated as i have been busy reading about gardening and plants and things that has been happening around my life. i am now managing two grow bed, each is about 6000 liter, one is grown with LED and one is grown with sunlight. however my plant is encountering problem such as the image below, i cant seem to identfy the problem as to what caused such pigmentation damage?
  6. Hello guys, how is it going? i am updating my test system stats again. my ph sits at 6.4, it dropped to 5.6 a few days ago and i added potash and egg shell to push it up to 6.4 TDS is at 560PPM and water temp is 28C iron is good didnt add any chelated for quite sometimes, ammonia and no2 is not detected using sera, no3 is more than 100ppm per litre, it was at 75 so i bump the feeding times to twice a day. the vegetable is growing rapidly as the picture below show when compared to my last post. I am excited, suppose me and my mom will harvest it in 2 days when my dad gets back here. I have also made a small wicking bed for my ginger, it was shipped for 3 days in package when i unpack it the shoot is dying and the root is brown but now i can see new shoot coming up and the root is starting to ligthen up. The wicking bed media is 16cm above the water level whereas the water level is 7cm above surface. I have also added a worm bin to make compost tea, bought the cocoon. Initially i wanted to buy esenia fetida but no one here sold it, we only have lumbricus but the seller told me it was mixed with the eisenia fetida. few hatched but now i cant see them i suppose they burried to eat the coco peat soil mix first as they are only 1cm long.
  7. Hello guys, here is an update on my plant along with a picture, sorry if it isnt so clear since i dont know why its like that. the middle plant is 3 weeks and a few days old and the other is only 2 weeks old. I see a big improvement on the growth after adding iron and grow lights plus foliage spraying magnesium sulfate water mix. Algae kept growing on the plant roots while i keep removing them to let them sink to the bottom. I dont know whether the algae is helpful to the plant roots or not in term of sucking nutrients. I also dont know what kind of algae it is. The pak choy although doesnt grow quite good to the eye since it seems to grow stem in a random manner, has leaf bigger and thicker than the one i see in the market. The No3 dropped 30%. I am trying to make compost tea hoping it will boost the growth and also help the system to cope with the plant needs. I think its going great aside from few technical and equipment issues, what do you guys think?
  8. Can someone please tell me what this is? its seems slimy but on hand it is not as slimy as it seems. It only grows in my grow bed and not in my filter tank or fish tank.
  9. Mr.Bigdaddy, i have seen quite a few videos about wicking bed and have read quite a few writings including the link that you send but there is just one thing that i did not quite understand. where should the drainage pipe be. is it below the geotextile fabric or above the geotextile fabric (the medium / fabric that separates the water + media and the soil)?. if it is above the fabric, wont the soil clog the drainage pipe? if it is below will the water keep the fabric wet enough for the wicking to work? few sources i have seen says that the best depth for wicking would 30cm deep soil, any more than that the wicking wont work that well, i have also read post of people claiming that there is no need to use the geotextile, just soil top down is fine. i will be trying those both but i just need to understand the position of drain pipe, is it below (covered by) the geotextile or above the geotextile meaning it is in the soil. Yes i will check the nitrates reading more often. i have not seen anything wrong with the fish, they are eating good, no matter how much i put in they will just gobble it up 10 to 20 minutes later and asking for more. the water is clear but a little red color since i added chelated iron and my fish feed somehow give off red color and high phosphate. i plant to add a round air stone that will sit at the bottom of my filter tank so they will aerate and help break down the solid fish waste, i have read few reading claiming that it helps but i dont know for sure, is this true? since my airstone kept floating in the middle or to the water surface which is tedious as to having to move them to the bottom everytime. I have also intended to add a seeding rack which have grow light sitting just 3cm or 4cm above the net pot before moving them to the system, as i read it helps so that the plant wont be leggy or spindly, it helps to keep the plant level. my plant has stalk that is about 1,5cm or 2cm which is indeed shorter than before adding the grow light. i have also noticed that after adding the light, the plant which is about 1 week already has roots in the water is i think is a good sign. do you think this is a good addition? i appreciate the help and explanation sir.
  10. Hello Mr.Bigdaddy. Yes i am currently planting 20 plants but i doubt that is enough. Due to space related issues i cant really add more grow bed as that requires more piping. But i intend to add a wicking bed to plant ginger, since its a wicking bed it wont need a reflow, i just add water by hand to it when the water level is low. Does this works?
  11. Hello Mr.Bigdaddy. This is my current reading: Water level is 500 liter Fe Iron 1,0mg/l = 500ppm Ammonia 0.003mg/l = 1,5ppm No2 0,0mg/l No3 >100mg/l = lots of ppm TDS 460ppm temp 27C i think this is a good reading, what do you think sir?
  12. Thanks for the kind advice Mr. Jake. I was dousing in some egg shell (8pcs of egg) for organic calcium. And the pH did raise to 6.8 so i removed the egg bag. If i kept it above 7 the plant will be deficient in magnesium later on.
  13. I just got my tds and ph meter, tried measuring it, my pH sit still at 6.6 and TDS is 442ppm, which is good reading i think? somehow liquid test ph came out with color of 6 and Carbonate hardness and general hardness from sera yield no result.
  14. Since installing the Grow lights, i have seen major growth on my pak choi. It was a left over from mu 30 watts red and blue light. Since then i added more pak choi and noi bai to see how it is.
  15. Finally its done guys, a diy grow lights with 81 watts, it should be 102 watts but fried a few of them. I hope the plants will grow well and better than last time, since i am really betting on this. I had put quite lot of money, effort, time and heart on this test. Im gonna update often now since the lights is up now only the growth remains. I hope you guys will help me out as always.