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About Moses

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    Not much to tell, i am a first timer looking to learn aquap(h)onic. i am looking forward to turn it into a family commercial system to help my family financial problems.
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    Computers, philosophy, arts, music and basically everything i can get my hands on

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  1. Amazon has them. Try searching for it. I am currently using SERA. But will switch to digital. Try yout local online market website if your area doesnt accept amazon
  2. Hello Phri, I dont have a garden nor a backyard so i must grow indoor, i do have a balcony and empty space at rooftop but the problem is i cant control what goes in to my system and not to mention my neighbour raises cat, seesh wonder what will happen to my fish.. Most city now use LED, even malls and shop houses uses them nowadays. Just an update, after adding 30 watts of light, i can see the differences - plants grow much more faster and are straightening up - pak choy that was germinated before the light was installed still has no root showing at the bottom of the net pot - pak choy that i just germinated after the light was installed, for 1 week already had roots at the bottom and the leave is much more greener and stronger - the romanian lettuce has grown with greener and darker leaves color the new DIY LED hasnt arrive yet so i can install it as i can see the lights is still missing, the wattage i am aiming for is 99 watts (overall wattage) although that might not be a true value when installed. 5x - 3W High Power Led 730nm GROW FAR-RED IR Emitter Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 4x - 3W High Power Led 3.200K WARM Emitter 210-220lm EpiSTAR NO.PCB 4x - 3W High Power Led 6.500K WHITE Emitter 200-230lm Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 660nm PLANT GROW RED Emitter 90-110lm Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 450-455nm GROW BLUE Emitter 40-45lm Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 940nm INFRA-RED IR Emitter Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB 5x - 3W High Power Led 420nm ULTRA-VIOLET UV Emitter Taiwan EpiSTAR NO.PCB i have a few question 1. when should i put the netpot with germinated plant ( 3 days after sprouting) to the raft? 2. i have seen people let the raft float and some that says leave the raft on top of the water with few inches gap between them so the roots can grow into the water themselves and has oxygen, which is better? 3. do i need to water my germinated plant (3 days old/just sprouted) if i hadn't been placed in the raft? 4. i cant seem to germinate anymore lettuce. i tried to put the seed in the net pot with wet coco peat but the seed did split open still nothing sprouted after 5 days. does anybody know why? it is the same batch as the lettuce i germinated before. is it because i didn't soak the bottom with water?
  3. That is a lot of led bulb, seems to be each line is only for 3 or for lettuce, 5 straight line of led bulb for a square meter? it seems i need to add more light, 50 watts seems to be not enough for a square meter. The plant is not being stimulated enough, although they start growing upright already. I think what you said is true Mr.Joe, too much light and few article i read suggest heat stimulate the lettuce to produce seed too quickly. i will add more light via DIY grow light, after I successfully done it, will post more pict.
  4. Mr. Joe, with regards to excessive lights for plant, i read that plant will have a certain light saturation point where the amount of lights produced exceeded the amount of how much the plant need, few articles say that it is 500 micromoles, like this one: alternatively i have posted screen shot of the section. There is also an article that has lots of calculation that seemed like gibberish to me, maybe you can see whether it is right or not. there is also information using chart to compare the spectrum pf different kinds of light
  5. Mr. Jack Levi, i dont think i can buy T5 here, also is it fluorescent lights?
  6. Thanks Mr.Joe, i have read your article and several others, most seems to suggest that OLED/LED lights are better than others type of light due to : 1. Better capability in producing specific spectrum according to Chlo-a and Chlo-b PAS. 2. Doesnt require high wattage to give proper lumens to the plants 3. Last longer and doesnt really need to be maintained 4. Doesnt burn the plants and rise the room temprature thus needing cooling means extra cost what you have said is true also regarding the required wattage. Most suggest 60watt to 150watt per square meter. however i still have two things that i am not quite sure how im suppose to do. 1. One of the article that i read suggest that each plants require different light intensity and some kind of plant like lettuce do better when the gap between the plant and the light is 30cm away. 2. The plant needs down time after 18 hours of light time, meaning we should turn the light off after 18 hour and turn it on again after 4 hour so each day we need only give lights for about 18 hour. please tell me your opinion. Also the light that i ordered has arrived as shown in the picture below. The middle one is 30 watt and the left and right one are both 3 watt blue lights, 3 led bulb per light. Been using for days and the plant stalk seems to be thicker and stronger, leaf are growing faster. However some youtube video suggested that it should be replanted as it is highly unlikely the plant will grow / mature healthly in term of shape. I have ordered 1 more 30 watt light lile the middle one, so i think this grow bed should have enough lights already. i have also seen some people used aluminium foil behind and the sides of the grow bed so the light refract back to the middle giving it maximum exposure thus no waste. What do you think about this method, is it worth a try? Since i dont have means to measure how much lumens is exposed to the plant already, if it is enough then adding it is pointless, the plant wont need extra lights. (lots of bak choy died due to lack of lights)
  7. Mr.Joe can you give me link so that i can learn about grow lights? Grow light seems to be the most part that i cant understand because most i read doesnt explain much detail into grow light like you does, i am still confused how is "white light" is considered full spectrum that covers red blue and other colors, also i have found supplier that sells diy lights, but it seems i still havent found store that provide assembled grow lights like the one you just posted, other than the diy. Is there any link also to learn about diy lights assembly?
  8. Mr.Joe im not sure i can find the same brand of Cree here but i have found website that sells LED chip like yours as well. but they dont post the colour spectrum i think maybe i can ask them about it. is there such LED lights that have full spectrum but only 1 light chip?
  9. thank you for the response Mr.Joe, I have no means to test the spectrum nor local store knows what LED spectrum they are selling but i have ordered Grow Lights with proper spectrum spec. will post them once they have arrive and installed. the lights from the side are indigo colored(?) i think. below are the stores specs and pics : 40 LED Grow 30W E27AC 85~265V 30 Watt Item: E27 LED Grow Light Light Source: 40pcs SMD 5730 Chips Lamp Beads Arranged: 22Red+12Blue+2White+2IR+2UV Beam Angle: 180 degree Body Temperature: 60C LED Working temperature: 65C Source Life: 50,000 hours Input Voltage: AC85V-265V coverage area : 2.5~5m2 Weight: 75g Dimension: 58mm*H72mm 0.5M SMD5630/5730 Blue Strip Grow Light led grow light for grow box hydroponics system Product Description: Superbright 5630/5730 SMD LED, high intensity and reliability. 36 SMD LEDs pcs Size: 1.2cm x 50cm Emitting Color: blue Length: 0.5cm Protection Rate Bare Board Non-waterproof Working Voltage: 12VDC LED Quantity: 72leds/m Viewing Angle : 120 Wattage: 12W/meter Wavelength: ; Blue: 450-465nm above are the specs of the grow lights, i am adding extra blue lights as mine are green leaf plants, not flowering one. i have lights of such wattage is intense enough for the plant.
  10. Your pump is 400 liter per hour and your fish tank hold 300 liter, in my opinion if you have grow bed that hold 100 liter it is enough, since you cant posibbly drain all your fish tank water to fill your media grow bed. If you go 1:1, im quite sure your fish tank wont have enough water since for it to fill the media grow bed and drain back. im currently testing a DWC system, it now has almost 400 liter of water. If i feed them too much the water will be cloudy, that is 3 times a day for four day straight. But if i feed them 2 or once per day and alternate with duck weed, the water stays clear with the addition of a bio filter of course. So if you flow your solid fish waste directly into your grow bed, i dont think the filteration will be enough to keep the water clean and to keep the solid waste staying at the bottom and not sticking to your plant roots. I think you need to pay close attention to your feeding intensity if you are going to have no extra filtration and only a 100 media grow bed that act as a bio filtration. I have read adding worms actually help break down the solid fish waste on the grow bed, maybe you can add those if you dont want to have extra filtration. if you turn your pump for only 12 min per hour, how are you going to achieve 300 liter per hour water exchange? I have read quite a few people saying that the water exchange should happen at least two or three times per hour. even if you add heavy feeder plants, i dont think its going to help, as plant consume nitrate, whilst fish waste being ammonia and solid waste needs to be broken down and converted to nitrite and then nitrate - what the plant needs is the No3. Fyi, the filter doesnt filter out the nutrition for the plant, but keep the bad things and turns it to good things for both your plants and your fish. You wouldnt want the fish waste to flow back to your fish tank. Normally the flow will be like from fish tank to filter then to the grow bed after this, back to the fish tank. but with all that i said, im not an expert im also trying it out for the first time. I dont know where the expert has gone to, since no one is replying my thread also.
  11. from my understanding by what i have read, 1:1 ratio concern mainly for healthy plant growth, but if your grow bed is too small then you may need to add a filter for the solid fish waste since most people that uses media grow bed mainly uses it also for bio filter. just don't over feed your fish as that will produce way too much ammonia and nitrites which will kill your fish. i don't think having more fish can be bad, but having way too much plants may be bad for your plants if your fish + bio filter cant keep up with waste to No3 conversion. i am now waiting also for my plant to grow, but doesn't seem to be so healthy, check it out maybe you can give me advice.
  12. An update on the bak choy and romanian lettuce. The first picture is romanian, the stalk is very small compared to the leaf. 3 weeks old already. I really dont think this is normal. Root is also very short growing out of the net pot. Can someone advice me on this matter? Bakchoy is 6 days old, seems normal so far. im using coco peat as the media. They seems to be growing toward the pink/purple led light opposed to the red/blue led strip light above. I am considering buying grow light with higher intensity for red and blue.
  13. Hello guys, it has been awhile since my last post. I promised that i would post pic of my aquaponic system when i fixed a better filter. My current one consist of: 1 plastic container used for 12 koi fish 1 plastic container for water bed 1 barrel for filter wood frame to hold the lightings and to lift the filter tank and the water tank pvc pipe for water flow 1 water pump 2 aeration devices 1 styrofoam to hold the netpots 300-350 liters of water the romanian lettuce is 2 weeks old ( i read online that it will take 75 100 days for it to fully mature since its not crisphead type ) and the germinated bak choy seed is just 3 days old. I also bought noy bai that i will start planting after the bak choy netpot is inserted into the hole. the flow is pretty simple, the water pumps from the fish tank to the filter, the water swirls, fills from bottom up then there is pieces of filter cloth stopping solids from flowing into the water bed and from the water bed flow back to the fish tank. the only problem i have now is the bubbles that are covering the whole surface of filter and fish tank, i read about it online and the only thing i get is the water is rough cause of the surface / water solid? I dont even understand what that mean. It wasnt there before i introduced the water bed and added 100 liters of water, but i doubt that was the cause. The end of the pipe i used for the water to flow into the water bed and fish tank is T shaped socket so the top let the air flow in and fall together with the water. since i saw venturi style pipe flow i thought that could help with the DO level.
  14. Hello Phri, i live in an island near sumatera located west of indonesia. its a small island so i doubt you will know. where did you visit? bali or jakarta? we dont have those book store over here but i do have ebook about it, this weekend i will read it if i can free up my slot. Hello and good day to you, Mr.Ande. no i dont think your criticism on my technical understanding about measurement is huge discouragement since it offers something better to improve the system, and i should be thanking you instead. You have said it correctly also that i should use the term well so others may not misunderstood. I do know that from 6 to 7 is 10 tenth differences, but the problem is i dont have a digital reading and the water swings in the color between 6 and 7 according to the color measurement provided. also an update, actually the photo of river rocks that i have posted did raise the water Ph when i soaked it for more than a day. i think now i will test the soaked stone every 4 hours to see how long does it takes for the water Ph to be affected. the previous water was 4 and then it raised to be neutral at 7. Okay i will try to read that manual also after reading about IAV method
  15. Great news, after the filter that i have added to the system (previously mentioned lame filter), not feeding the fish for a day since yesterday and adding Nitrobacteria starter, the water has become quite clear. it is not cloudy anymore. i think the yellow color is due to the slimy stuff / fish waste stuck on the surface thats why the water reflected yellow color. i tested the Ph and strangely it raised from 7 to 8, previously before adding filter and bacteria the Ph drop from 7 to 6.5-ish. the gallon i mentioned if converted to liter is 19 liter i used three gallon means i have 57 liter of water. so from what i read is i have two problem regarding the water and tank, the water is too little and the tank is too small for 16 koi of any size. if i were to understood from your reply that means 1 fish needs at least 14 liter of water is that correct? if regarding the bio-filter then must i add the media ratio to about 50% of the amount of water for the bacteria to have a place to attach and grow and to properly process my fish waste? 1 fish - 14 liter of water - 7 liter of media for bacteria. oh and below is the media i am washing that i used for the bio-filter, plan to add a bigger filter since you said the water is not enough. it is freshwater river rocks, it occasionally contain reefs and shell. tested the Ph by soaking it for 1 day, doesn't reduce or raise. As for the growing substrate i think i will use coco peat or coir rather than rock wool since i read it doesn't decompose, and yes i think i am going to use the raft style since it is easily done with material available and i think it is also one of the cheapest kind if i am not mistaken from reading the online resources but yes i will research more into that, mainly which media is more easier to manage. Growing Facilities, i plan to make a green house(?) since i think it is safer for the system from the influence of outside element and safe from sabotage or theft ( believe it or not it is common for people to do that here!! if you park your motorcycle in front of a police station by the road it might be gone tomorrow if no one was there to look after it), i am not planning to plant this in the city where i stay since my place doesn't have a backyard so i am planning to plant it by the mountain sides or hill sides where there are still villagers (but most has left agriculture since the land is not really hospitable anymore due to bauxite mining). since no one is staying there by the site i am planning to build the system, i need to lock the place down securely. i have also seen a lot of people planting their fish tank and grow bed down, that way they can add another layer on top, which i think i will also implement, but of course i will count by the square feet. i think the ratio of FT and GB is 1:1 since i have read multiple post online stating they tested and it works, is that a safe ratio? I have also just ordered various liquid test kits, which will arrive, i will update the stats of the test when it has arrived next week! I have also recently ordered KOH Kalium Hydroxide (Potassium Hydroxide / lye) and plan to order flake version of Calcium, Iron, Phosphate and Magnesium, although if i added those can i still consider my system to be "organic" or harmful chemical free if properly controlled? i have read alot online people adding KOH or Bicarbonate Pottasium (but this add salt content as well) and they said it is ok, the fish survive this. i was wondering will the plant and fish be safe for consumption for the human in the long run. i mean i dont add chemical compound to the soil but adding those will it be the same? maybe i need to research more into this by comparing what compost compound do grower usually use. i have also seen people recommending sea bird poop and Banana peel but i am a little skeptical adding those to my system, afraid that it will kill the fish in the long run, since the system is pretty much a made-up ecosystem, what if it doesnt have a necessary buffer like a natural pond or lake does. Thank you for such a generous reply, i will also read the IAVs link! maybe even try it out making a small scale model as i am now as a side by side comparison to using coco peat for the substrate.