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Everything posted by Toga

  1. Hi Ande, I get that link quoted to me several times a year. My response always is... for a retired scientist, he readily relies on a very non-scientific conclusion of "None of these papers is very convincing to me".. I then follow up by asking, If ERW is bogus pseudoscience, why has it been employed extensively in dozens of niche industry uses for decades ? I then say, for those that want to read 'real science'... have a look at; (180+ ERW scientific studies) Also have a look at; (168,000+ Molecular Hydrogen scientific studies) Often massive opposition has either; a) An undeclared conflict of interest, or b) A financial interest of conflict, or c) A unknown quantity of ignorance, lack of knowledge or experience I have just received another recently completed scientific study, direct from the Dr / Scientist titled "Scientific Study Results on the Benefits of ERW in Living Tissue Culture and in Living Human Volunteers". I love this quotes from Gary's signature: "All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident." - Arthur Schopenhauer Cheers Toga
  2. Hi, A fellow member mentioned some trials they were doing with electrolysis, in an unrelated thread, here. Wiki simply explains Electrolysis of water as: "Electrolysis of water is the decomposition of water into oxygen and hydrogen gas due to the passage of an electric current. The reaction has a standard potential of −1.23 V, meaning it ideally requires a potential difference of 1.23 volts to split water." History has shown many 1000's of benefits & applications of electrically reduced water (ERW). One of the largest impact of benefits of ERW was first realised as early as 1870 with studies into its anti-microbial / anti-bacterial properties. ERW was the main disinfectant, steriliser and sanitiser of WW1... and was still in use until mid 1920's when pharma chemical came along. It is interesting to follow the history of ERW... because it, like so many other things of the time, were outcast (by design) in favour of pharmaceuticals. After the nuclear bombing of Japan in WW2, trade sanctions saw very little pharmaceuticals or medications into the country. ERW, once again, became #1 for disinfecting, sterilising and sanitising. So with that little snippet of history / intro complete, I'll throw in a little teaser to say that I have a bit of personal info and experiences to share... but for now, I'll open the floor for discussion .......... Cheers Toga
  3. Hello Mohamed, Does your friend do aquaponics... or only fish ? The reason I ask is for many complex reasons, but I'll try to keep it simple; Adding a shade roof - Yes, absolutely. Less direct sun on the water = lower algae growth in pond Adding a Swirl Filter (SF) - Yes, you can... and it will help... if you are finding fry in the growbeds/sumps, they will also be in any new swirl filter. The issues I see are that SF are; a) Sized (small, medium - huge) according to water flow & retention time, and b) Pumps are best placed AFTER a SF. The benefits of a well designed SF is that: a) removes solid wastes from the fish pond, and b) greatly reduces any solid waste being pumped into the grow beds, thus reducing maintenance. You size pond may need 2 swirl filters. Adding ceramic filtration - In my opinion, This is good, and not so good - again for many reasons. One main reason your fish are alive & breeding and the pond is green is because, technically, the pond is mature.... BUT the issue is that the complete Nitrogen cycle (waste nutrient use) is contained within the pond... all/most fish waste nutrients are being consumed by the algae. In my view, for aquaponics, ceramic filtration - due to high surface area & bacterial growth, could potentially do to much filtering, leaving low/no levels of fish waste nutrients for your plants to grow. For fish only systems - Yes, absolutely. Ceramic filtration plus swirl filter will offer great results. The idea of aquaponics is that the Growing Plants ARE the final stages of Nitrogen Cycle balance and management.. When you add a shade roof - the algae will reduce somewhat... When you add swirl filters - the algae will reduce even more... When you have healthy growing plants - the algae will reduce to be very, very little. My best advice at this stage is - Go Slowly. Do a lot more research about filters before you make decisions and spend $$$. Cheers Toga
  4. Hi Ande, They look awesome ! They must keep fresh ok ?, with the Christmas still 4 weeks away. Without your description, they look like giant pancakes for the Norsemen Cheers Joe
  5. Hi Joe, Hi all, As a child, I too was fascinated by bubbles in water... of a slightly different nature, for me it was Siamese Fighting Fish - 'Bubble Nests'. That fascination saw me breeding Betta's by my 10th birthday... nothing has changed in 45yrs since By way of further introduction / explanation of the huge scope of benefits of ERW, I'll start with a little personal history of how I was introduced to electrolysis of water. My 1st time deep interest in electrolysis & water came about due to my kidney cancer diagnosis, subsequent removal of 50% of each, and further diagnosis of Polycystic Kidney Disease. My long time friend and personal Dr of 35yrs told me of the benefits of electrolysied reduced water (ERW), of the free hydrogen that is a super antioxidant for hydration (drinking & 100's of cooking uses), of the anti-bacterial/fungal/microbal properties (chemical free kitchen/home sanitising & cleaning), of the many pH varieties, their many electrical charges and properties, of the 100's of internal and external human applications (all of which have been extensively suppressed for 70yrs), of the extraordinary chemical properties and potentials (extensively used in industry)... many of which have gone either unstudied or have had the technology suppressed for 80 - 100 years. We bought a medical grade unit that is used in Japanese hospitals, for our home 7 years ago, solely to assist my recovery, my wifes TBI, and generally improve our families health. I consider it to be one of several solid reasons I am still here today. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- *Notice & Disclaimer* I am an international distributor of this medical grade electrolysis unit. If you are interested to learn more about this unit, send me a message or visit my website - The content of this post, and link to my website, have been approved by APN Owner & APN Administrator & Mod Team -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, with that additional little side track of history and information said ... lets kick start (and stay on) the topic of this thread - Electrolysis in Aquaculture & Agriculture I have since gone on to read/study more about the potential uses of ERW in aquaculture and agriculture. There are many so called 'secret' trials out there. Seeing that I own a medical grade ERW unit, and have interest in 'playing' with almost everything I was reading about.... It was only a natural progression for me to setup a tiny balcony garden and AP system that exclusively uses ERW. My setup uses many different qualities of ERW, for many different purposes, and has been doing so for 2 years now. (Yes, I know... I need to do an 'aquaponics systems' thread about it) As brief examples, I use: ERW 2.5pH for sterilizing, disinfecting and sanitising nft pipes, pots, nets, clay balls, hands, quarantine foot/shoe baths... its also brilliant for energising seed germination - ERW 4.0pH for acid preference fruiting plants (blueberry) - ERW 6.5pH for water changes / pond & filter top-ups - ERW 7.0pH for watering seedlings, water changes / pond & filter top-ups - ERW 7.5pH / 8.0pH, 8.5pH, 9.0pH, 9.5pH, 10.0pH, 10.5Ph, 11.0pH & 11.5pH- ... many, many uses of many different pH's. Far too much to list/discuss in one post.... that is why I started this thread. I have had the view for many decades that, "Water is the most complex thing on Earth". I will be away for a week. When I return i'll look at the mainstream commercial uses of ERW in agriculture and industry of the past 100 years. Then i'll jump onto commercial trials of growing rice with ERW (yes, of all crops - Rice !?!).... the cattle/dairy industry, then splash into aquaculture. Cheers Toga
  6. Hello Mohamed, I think, put simply, what is missing in your system is maturity and balance. This can / does take time and often is a combination of many factors. The important thing is to maintain health of the fish you do have now. Adjusting the pH will be problematic because you have a rather large volume of water, you have fish in the pond and you have close to 50 tonnes of gravel that may be affecting the pH. I would normally suggest using various acids to lower pH... this is dangerous and can be fraught with hazard. Many people accidentally kill their fish adjusting pH. In your case, for the moment, I would address other issues first. My suggestion to cover the pond was to make something like a raised shadehouse/roof. The numbers make reference to Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. This is known as the Nitrogen Cycle. **EDIT - Living Bacteria that need to grow, age and mature** Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle is extremely high priority. This directly effects both Fish & Plant health and growth. You can read more here. When you finally get a balanced Nitrogen cycle you will see much less algae grown, and much more plant growth. Cheers Joe
  7. Hi Willroy, I am looking specifically at your layout plan, and reading your verbal plans... and I am having some confusions. I do not exactly comprehend - a) What each different size grow area is designed for, so many areas and sizes ? b) Which areas for the Tilapia ? c) Which areas for the Red Claws ? d) I do not see a water flow diagram - Inlets / outlets / sumps / pumps ? e) I do not see any filtration ? d) Do you plan additional aeration ? I hope you are still in the 'pencil on paper' planning stage. I am sure to have more questions when I have a clearer understanding of your layout plans. At that point in time, I/we/APN members/APN staff, would be able to offer many more specific comments / feedback. Each of these questions, and answers has big implications to design, layout and easy operation. Examples are: A) Different sizes and types of media growbeds, DWRaft, fish areas, crayfish areas... each have a different internal shape / profile for best recommended performance / results. B & C) For best results, each species has slightly different preferred habitat requirements for different stages of growth. Breeding, fry rearing, fingerling grow out... and even purging, in regard to tank size / shape / profile. 100mx80m greenhouse is an expensive exercise... doing something/s wrong and having to re-do them is +4x as expensive. Cheers Toga
  8. Hello Mohamed from UAE, Welcome to APN forums. Excellent decision to utilise the greenhouse ! OK, i'll try to address what you have mentioned and I have viewed, to the best of my opinion and experience. a) 7.6pH is to high for most plants to thrive in due to nutrient lock-out. Best results are usually found around 6.0-7.0pH due to nutrient availability. b) Irrigation timing is one of the largest variables and is dependent on many factors. Different sizes, shapes and depths of GB will have different water/moisture retention capacities. My experience suggests that growbeds with non-porous rocks do better with irrigation timings of 15mins ON / 45min OFF. *My growbeds were 5mtrs long x 1.4mtrs wide - I have no experience with IBC size growbeds Some people advocate irrigation only during the day, my systems ran 24hrs a day. c) I note 2 fans at greenhouse end wall. What are the day/night air temperatures, min/max ? d) A big issue, in my view, is the green water pond. As good as these conditions may be for the tilapia and fry... the green algae is consuming all of the nutrients, intended for the plants in the growbeds. Have you tested the pond water for Ammonia, Nitrites & Nitrates ? ... the results are ?? Such luscious green algae suggests to me your results might be around 0ppm/0ppm/10-20ppm, My systems ran approx 0ppm/5ppm/150ppm Additionally, water temps may be higher than your plants prefer... especially as the pond is in full desert sun. What are your water temps ? Is there a way you can cover the pond ? Also, I noted some leaky irrigation fittings. These reduce water pressure, increase evaporation and increase running costs. Looking forward to your future updates. Cheers Toga
  9. Hi Willroy, Sorry for my delayed reply. I am really loving what you have done, and are planning to do. I do however apologise that I can not get a more detailed reply and some questions to you for a couple of days. Cheers Toga
  10. Hi Stigmatize, General consensus it that it is best to keep fish of same size, as much as possible. This reduces potential aggression and dominance of food. They tend to grow more evenly in size, too. Cheers Toga
  11. That is very interesting, Joe. Rosenburgii & ERW ? Are you sure you are not my twin ? lols I'll start a new thread later today re Electrolysis. As it happens, I too am experimenting with ERW (electrically reduced water) What's in a name, ehh ? Cheers TogaJoe
  12. HI Cecil & Joe, Odor, oxygen, bio-load, filtration and water changes are all complexly linked together. Odor is caused by anaerobic bacteria buildup. The odor is one of their resultant waste products. (as is CO2 and ammonia) Causes can be infrequent/no water changes, little/no supplemental aeration, high bio-load and/or feed rates -v's- low(er) volume (bio-capacity) systems. Oxygen is consumed not only by the fish, but by aerobic bacteria... in fact, the bacteria can be more demanding than the fish, in some systems/water/feed rate ratio's. Oxygen saturation is directly linked to CO2 saturation, as one increases - the other decreases. As feed rates, bio-loads, fish size/waste increase so does the increase/build up of CO2 production.... as does the demand on oxygen by both, the fish and bacteria. Supplemental aeration and filtration are implemented to address oxygen demand, CO2, feed rate, bio-load. However, this does not address, filter, dissipate, desolve or neutralise several/many other properties that build up and/or reduce with time, or bio-load. These include the reduction of water stability and buffering capacity via consumed minerals, sodiums, calciums etc... and include build up of disolved inorganics, proteins and pheromones. Pheromones play a key factor in over all growth, maturity, fertility, hatch rate & FCR (feed conversion ratio). The only way to reduce pheromones is water changes, I believe. I have read nothing to suggest that plant growth results in a reduction of pheromone concentrations, as it does ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, phosphate, iron reductions... etc. Cheers Toga
  13. Hi ansihkgt, I use to catch and weigh a sample number, say 20 fish out of 500... then calculate the average weight and then x 500. Not only useful for adjusting feed rates, but also very important for assigning simple stocking density, transport density & container qty, medication, compound grow out and so much more. Cheers Joe
  14. In a mood for a jam now, so I had to play a second song, on the acoustic this time... so, that meant I had to post a 2nd video. LongLiveLedZeppelin
  15. Hi folks, This is such a Brilliant Clip ! I think I first played this song on guitar 40yrs ago... and again just now for the chill out factor. I love the facial expressions of everyone.... The Rock Legends are like; "This gig is Rocking" The Drummer & all other muzo's are like; "Oww man - We are rocking out with Led Zeppelin" Cheers Rockstar Toga
  16. Hi Joe, Your a winner on the internet, you made it here ! Welcome to APN. I'm sure you will find some useful information. We are just suckers for pics and some details, background etc. Interested in seeing your incarnation of organic hydro and shrimps/fish setup/s. Cheers Toga - Joe -
  17. Owwww my, sounds like a story for a campfire
  18. 'Just a lill' extension' (hehe) Goes to show that you dont need to spend $$$$$$$ on a good GH. Nice work WillsC
  19. Hi umesh2063, Welcome to APN. There are many system styles that work well... and many that are disasters. The best advice is to take some time to read about different system here on the forum. You will find one that appeals to your needs / space / skills. Feel free to ask questions to help understand. Cheers Toga
  20. Hi Gary, Yes, i've recently found that as well. It appears that the settings have altered and the 'Settings' tab appears to be greyed out. I'll bring this to Kellen's attention. Cheers Toga
  21. Hi Willroy, It is very common, like the Earth tides. There are many reasons, from family commitments, work, illness, moved house, simple exhaustion from overload.... I myself am only just bouncing back after 2 strokes & 14 months of illness. Cheers Joe
  22. Public Notice The Aquaponics Nation Administration & Moderation Team have now permanently locked this thread. We have taken this action due to ongoing violations of APN forum rules regarding member participation and advertising practices. The APN Team wish to thank all members for their contributions, and wish all the best to VKN. Thank you Aquaponics Nation Administration & Moderation Team
  23. Hi ansihkgt, Sounds like you have things well under control with your setup. How old is the concrete tank.. have you had difficulty with high pH ? Cheers Toga
  24. Hi ansihkgt, Generally speaking, FCR is a historical industry average of harvest results. This can vary greatly from species to species... with some producers claiming FCR's up to 1:1.4 (140%) The most important consideration, and one ever so often overlooked / ignored by hobbyists, is that these results / references are from professional operations, with high quality filtration, aeration, water pumps etc... AND a trained eye overseeing it all. Best advice is to start at the very bottom end of such references to feed rate. CLOSELY observe feeding patterns and regulate accordingly. Just because an article says xyz size tilapia will eat 100grams of food per day this month (IE:3kgs), does NOT mean your system has the bio capacity to filter that quantity of waste. Much more information about your system is required to give a comprehensive picture of your circumstances. Do you have filtration ? What is your water flow for 12,000ltr pond ? What grow beds do you have / or plan to have ? Raft / NFT / iAVs / F&D ? Start a thread in the systems area and add some pictures. Cheers Toga
  25. Hi ansihkgt, That info appears fairly accurate. If I recall correctly, some Tilapia farms in Thailand are achieving better than a 1:1 FCR... in Optimum conditions. Cheers Toga