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  3. Some pictures of the bluegill tank at feeding time.. theres about 300 bg and res in this tank give or take
  4. Great updates and interesting info about Neem. Thanks for sharing! Hoping to get started on my new system soon.
  5. Well, one month turned into... 6 months?! At any rate, I'm finally getting started on fencing in our new lot where I'll be building a greenhouse, fish tanks, and a workshop. Hopefully will have more interesting stuff to post soon! Cheers, Jeff
  6. Last week
  7. Hi Moses, fyi, T5 florescent are the most used lights in Indonesia. I wonder, why do you need artificial light while you on top of the equator? as this guaranties sufficient light the whole year. Going to be hard to beat the sun, and electricity is quite expensive in indo.
  8. A bit of drama over the weekend... i have been harvesting 1-2 pounds of greens a day, juicing, eating raw, making sauerkraut.. i was working around the rafts and i saw something black with a tail under the leaves slip into the water.... It really messed with my mind, i wasnt going to be able to harvest anymore greens until i figured out what it was... so i took out each raft one at a time until i caught him. In this area there is a very poisonous water viper named water moccasin or in this area that are often call "cottonmouth". As it turns out it was something harmless.. I let him go out on the easement after explaining to him he was not welcome. Does anyone have any experience with these vibrating/inaudible snake repelant solutions? like Sorry some of the pictures are blurry i was working in water , plus it was 95 degrees outside hot sweaty and humid and i think i got the lens wet.
  9. Hi Toga, I am interested in learning about this. My current situation has greatly encouraged me to make use of my old 500 litre fish tanks in my garage( a project for later on ) as they are too big in diameter to take down to the back yard. Some of my concerns are the cost of lighting, running costs and initial outlay, and weather I think it is worth growing the food indoors or not. Metal Halide lamps have been the choice for indoor growers for a long time but they are expensive to run. With the new "FULL SPECTRUM" LED lights available on the market today with the reduced costs compared to before. I'm wondering if they will be worth it. I understand lighting is whole new "science" to me and I have lots and lots to learn so I appreciate your informative posts, I also am learning every day. Cheers.
  10. Thanks Ande for the 5 posts you directed me (to) for my question. I just skimmed them and found some valuable inromation. I have to read more carefully to find references to variable output pumps; didn't see any from skimming.

    Another matter: is there such a thing as dictionary of aquaponics acronyms?


    1. ande


      Hi CR

      there is this



  11. any more progress, I love this layout!
  12. Hi CR Welcome to APN/HQ This thread might be of some help cheers
  13. I just joined the forum. I am a longtime traditional grower of plants and animals. After reading a couple of books then thinking about setting an aquaponic set up, I imagined that it would be much easier if there were variable output pumps. No doubt by now many others have come up with that brilliant idea. so I put the key words: "variable output pumps" in half a dozen search b oxes so far and .... without a doubt, someone here can start me in the right dirrection. Thanks CalmRon
  14. I have never lacto fermented before... so this is all new experience... but as my dad used to say, "you wont learn any younger"...
  15. That is a lot of led bulb, seems to be each line is only for 3 or for lettuce, 5 straight line of led bulb for a square meter? it seems i need to add more light, 50 watts seems to be not enough for a square meter. The plant is not being stimulated enough, although they start growing upright already. I think what you said is true Mr.Joe, too much light and few article i read suggest heat stimulate the lettuce to produce seed too quickly. i will add more light via DIY grow light, after I successfully done it, will post more pict.
  16. Hi Moses, I have never professed to being an academic expert in any field, though have had great interest and experience in many. Thanks for this info and article. It is exactly the type of material I have referenced over the years of my life's learning experiences. As you have pointed out, technically, Yes, it is possible to have too much light, for any given requirement of any particular species. In practice, more often then not, for home indoor purposes, I would suggest that maximum saturation of light is rarely an issue. I would go as far as to suggest that 90% of failed or poor indoor vegetable crops are due to insufficient quality and quantity of light. How we deal with these failed or poor indoor crops, in regard to lighting, will continue to develop as technology advances. Check out this picture (posted in another thread), and combine the info and article you linked. The picture goes a long to way explaining; led ratio and layout per square meter, the number of leds would indicate to me they are perhaps only 1-3 watt each, which in line with required lighting periods (saturation), that would dictate (allow) the leds to be only 10-12 inchs above the crop. The same principal applies if you were to start with a 1000watt High Pressure Sodium light to grow 20 lettuce. They would explode in size very rapidly, but I suggest they would then bolt to seed before they were dense - full size, crop lettuce. This is standard nature for outdoor lettuce here in mid summer... the over saturation of sun light stresses the biological clock and the result is the plants immediate instinct to reproduce before it dies... bolting to seed. Cheers Joe
  17. Earlier
  18. Mr. Joe, with regards to excessive lights for plant, i read that plant will have a certain light saturation point where the amount of lights produced exceeded the amount of how much the plant need, few articles say that it is 500 micromoles, like this one: alternatively i have posted screen shot of the section. There is also an article that has lots of calculation that seemed like gibberish to me, maybe you can see whether it is right or not. there is also information using chart to compare the spectrum pf different kinds of light
  19. Hi Gary, Yes, initial cost as well as ongoing power costs and heat production are main areas of concern with various lighting types. The other main areas are O2 and CO2 exchange, and humidity within a contained grow room. I have read a fair bit about commercial nursery experiments supplementing daylight with specific types of lighting solutions... both, during the full sun of day, and at night. I agree, well worth another thread... i'll hunt some info up and post later tonight. Cheers Joe
  20. Keep it up, Toga. I'm learning more about lighting with every post that you make. I would really like to build a grow room...with the ability to control every aspect of plant production...but the power (and heat) associated with HID and MH lights has been an issue...and I've found some of the claims around LED lights (not to mention the cost) a bit intimidating. What's your view of a hybrid set up...where the grow room functions as a greenhouse during the day and, at night, it gets closed up and the lights come on for a period? Feel free to take this discussion to its own topic if you want?
  21. Hi again Moses, An important fact I forgot to mention that we need to keep in mind when trying to reproduce sunlight indoors, is that the sun lights the earth at the rate of 1000watts per square meter. So even if you increase the lighting with another 2 x 30w globes... you are still 10x under the light intensity of the sun. This is why having the correct 'spectrums' of light is paramount.. and utilising every watt produced is just as important. Growing food indoors is not impossible, but it is not as simple as putting a light over plants. Cheers Joe
  22. Hi Jake, With respect, you are incorrect. T5's are the smallest diameter of the old style florescent globes. Although you can get T5 globes in "red" "blue" "green" and "white", they do not come close to the spectrum accuracy of led's. T5's are great for small aquariums and general home use, but in my opinion, that is where they stop. Hi Moses, 1) In most instances the distance between the light and the crop is very small, yes 30cm or there abouts. The rule of thumb is if the outer margins of the leaves begin to curl / burn... then increase the distance by 5cm-10cm. 2) Yes, plants do need a 'night' period also. Lighting periods of 18 hours on / 6 hours off is not uncommon. 3) Yes, seedlings that have a poor start are less likely to thrive to maximum potential. However, I use to have access to as many 'poor quality', 'sparse' or 'leggy' seedlings as I wanted from a local nursery. They still grew, and produced eatable food. *EDIT*... in my outdoor system *End Edit* 4) Again, Yes. Aluminum foil will reflect more light back onto the plants and direct some of it to lower leaves that may be in shadows from leaves above. With indoor growing, every watt of light produced should be directed on to the plants. If those new lights equal 36watts in total, in your picture ... an educated guess would suggest that perhaps 10% - 15% of the light produced is shining on the wall... that is 3.6watts wasted. With indoor growing, you can never have too much light. Cheers Joe
  23. Yes, the T5's are the best Flo. grow lights, they are much larger in dia then any of the others. I have had good experience using them. They might be able to be ordered from a dealer. Even here I have gotten better prices buying them in a box, the size I got had ten lamps in a box. Good luck. Jake
  24. Mr. Jack Levi, i dont think i can buy T5 here, also is it fluorescent lights?
  25. Thanks Mr.Joe, i have read your article and several others, most seems to suggest that OLED/LED lights are better than others type of light due to : 1. Better capability in producing specific spectrum according to Chlo-a and Chlo-b PAS. 2. Doesnt require high wattage to give proper lumens to the plants 3. Last longer and doesnt really need to be maintained 4. Doesnt burn the plants and rise the room temprature thus needing cooling means extra cost what you have said is true also regarding the required wattage. Most suggest 60watt to 150watt per square meter. however i still have two things that i am not quite sure how im suppose to do. 1. One of the article that i read suggest that each plants require different light intensity and some kind of plant like lettuce do better when the gap between the plant and the light is 30cm away. 2. The plant needs down time after 18 hours of light time, meaning we should turn the light off after 18 hour and turn it on again after 4 hour so each day we need only give lights for about 18 hour. please tell me your opinion. Also the light that i ordered has arrived as shown in the picture below. The middle one is 30 watt and the left and right one are both 3 watt blue lights, 3 led bulb per light. Been using for days and the plant stalk seems to be thicker and stronger, leaf are growing faster. However some youtube video suggested that it should be replanted as it is highly unlikely the plant will grow / mature healthly in term of shape. I have ordered 1 more 30 watt light lile the middle one, so i think this grow bed should have enough lights already. i have also seen some people used aluminium foil behind and the sides of the grow bed so the light refract back to the middle giving it maximum exposure thus no waste. What do you think about this method, is it worth a try? Since i dont have means to measure how much lumens is exposed to the plant already, if it is enough then adding it is pointless, the plant wont need extra lights. (lots of bak choy died due to lack of lights)
  26. To further this on the pump and grow bed, Dr McMurtry suggests a 15 min pumping time per hour for the flooding stage, and then an hour to drain. This needs a careful choice on the pump, that is capable in 15 mins to give a 'flooding' to the bed, another reason why he is adamant on using sand for the growing bed. So if your goal is other then a McMurtry IAV bed then your choices are your choices, some will work better then others. You didnt mention the size of your goldfish whether they are little guys or adult near spawning size. So there is a lot of room for you in your system to tweak it as you want, your results can vary, but its all up to you, a lot of different configurations can work very well for you. I have parts for a similar system for myself, inside, and almost at the same time acculating material for a flood and drain in a hoop house next to the house. FWIW, the inside one will have 2Xs the gallons in the grow bed, as the tank, and it will also have a 50-75 gallon sump/reservoir , the pump will have capacity to flood the grow bed sand in 15 mins, and then it drains. I will tweak the flooding time to what seems to work best, I expect every other hour. we'll see. The inside tank is 75 gallons, and it will have 15 koi, about 5-6 " to start. The hoop house will have Blue Gills. To start, maybe a 2nd system with Yellow Perch. Right now emphasis is on putting the inside system together. The hoop house will probably go together after Labor Day. So , we shall see, most of the inside parts, the main thing is to build the grow bed. It is taking 2nd place to another outside project, but it will come together.
  27. I think you are right. Mycelium. It would cover all of the media.
  28. Sounds very interesting, please keep us posted in how its doing. In the fwiw column, I prefer to use a combination of nitrifying methods.
  29. That is why you have the pump on a timer. Dr McMurtry discusses this. He uses/suggests a 15 min flood cycle. He also stresses the use of sand in 'his' IAV system. All of his results and writings are on the use of sand, right down to the size of the sand.
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