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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hi Moses, To stop algae, if your water readings are correct... Stop the sunlight hitting the water/algae. Cheers.
  3. Last week
  4. Hi Moses It's algea cheers
  5. Can someone please tell me what this is? its seems slimy but on hand it is not as slimy as it seems. It only grows in my grow bed and not in my filter tank or fish tank.
  6. Hi there, random question here. I read a post by you concerning some mineralization tank nuances. I was wondering if you ever find out the reason for the pH and phosphate spike after agitating the mineralization tank?  Also, you said you tested it the next day. Could the rise in pH have happened within 30 mins or so?

  7. Not really clay, they are dug up and shaped using the same native earth.
  8. Hi VKN, Are those bed walls made from clay? Cheers.
  9. Hi again Moses Endless number of designs to choose from here Pick one that fits your local easy/cheap/free available materials and tools. Old Prospector have some nice designed small wicking buckets in his photo album have a look at them, they might be a good alternative cheers
  10. Mr.Bigdaddy, i have seen quite a few videos about wicking bed and have read quite a few writings including the link that you send but there is just one thing that i did not quite understand. where should the drainage pipe be. is it below the geotextile fabric or above the geotextile fabric (the medium / fabric that separates the water + media and the soil)?. if it is above the fabric, wont the soil clog the drainage pipe? if it is below will the water keep the fabric wet enough for the wicking to work? few sources i have seen says that the best depth for wicking would 30cm deep soil, any more than that the wicking wont work that well, i have also read post of people claiming that there is no need to use the geotextile, just soil top down is fine. i will be trying those both but i just need to understand the position of drain pipe, is it below (covered by) the geotextile or above the geotextile meaning it is in the soil. Yes i will check the nitrates reading more often. i have not seen anything wrong with the fish, they are eating good, no matter how much i put in they will just gobble it up 10 to 20 minutes later and asking for more. the water is clear but a little red color since i added chelated iron and my fish feed somehow give off red color and high phosphate. i plant to add a round air stone that will sit at the bottom of my filter tank so they will aerate and help break down the solid fish waste, i have read few reading claiming that it helps but i dont know for sure, is this true? since my airstone kept floating in the middle or to the water surface which is tedious as to having to move them to the bottom everytime. I have also intended to add a seeding rack which have grow light sitting just 3cm or 4cm above the net pot before moving them to the system, as i read it helps so that the plant wont be leggy or spindly, it helps to keep the plant level. my plant has stalk that is about 1,5cm or 2cm which is indeed shorter than before adding the grow light. i have also noticed that after adding the light, the plant which is about 1 week already has roots in the water is i think is a good sign. do you think this is a good addition? i appreciate the help and explanation sir.
  11. Earlier
  12. Hi Moses, I can't see any reason why what you suggest could not work...If it is set up properly There is some talk somewhere on the forums about wicking beds... Have a look through the non aquaponic growing systems section. And you'll find this. You may also find some other threads of interest there. Hope this helps. Keep up with your regular testing, it's a very good way of catching something if things start to go wrong. I'd suggest keeping a log. Posting on here is a good way of doing that. Or you could keep it somewhere else of course. I'd keep a particular eye on your nitrates ATM and see if they drop after your planting. If they do not, post on here again and we'll see what we can do to help. How are your fish looking? Please keep us updated on your progress. Cheers.
  13. Thanks. I will look into that for next year. In actuality it would not have to be over the entire pond. Just out a few feet from the edges and out over the water would work as these birds do not land in the water but wade in. That said it would have to be set up where they can't stand on the netting to fish over the edge. So perhaps it would be better and easier to just cover the pond. I had a bird one night in another pond standing on an extension cord to a night light that was used to attract yellow perch fry for feed training. These birds are really amazingly intelligent!
  14. Growing With Fishes Aquaponic Cannabis Podcast Episode 53 w Joe Pate of Kentucky State University Aquaponic Hemp Research Program. He will be talking with us about his ongoing research into how aquaponics effects hemp production. They are currently running side by side testing of soil grown vs aquaponics and other studies. Will be a great episode you will not want to miss! Live 6:30 pm PST Thursday Link: Growing With Fishes Podcast
  15. Hello Mr.Bigdaddy. Yes i am currently planting 20 plants but i doubt that is enough. Due to space related issues i cant really add more grow bed as that requires more piping. But i intend to add a wicking bed to plant ginger, since its a wicking bed it wont need a reflow, i just add water by hand to it when the water level is low. Does this works?
  16. Hi Moses All looks good to me. I'd be happy with that. I'd be working on bringing the nitrates down by adding more plants. I would not look at doing any water changes. Try to do it by planting more plants if you can. Cheers.
  17. Hello Mr.Bigdaddy. This is my current reading: Water level is 500 liter Fe Iron 1,0mg/l = 500ppm Ammonia 0.003mg/l = 1,5ppm No2 0,0mg/l No3 >100mg/l = lots of ppm TDS 460ppm temp 27C i think this is a good reading, what do you think sir?
  18. The sincere point of sharing your practical experience is great, am following to hear and see another of your success story and learning every bit
  19. Hi Nsidibe and welcome to APN, and the addiction. I would advise you to start on a small backyard system first and learn how to drive it, once you have (I found there is a steep learning curve involved) then expand it bit by bit. Then if you are successful at that read up and invest in gaining commercial knowledge (It's a completely different ball game including but not excluding other things such as rock solid business plans, larger investment, risk and more). Once you have that knowledge then maybe look at doing it commercially, be it small or large. Meanwhile, I look forward to seeing your progress on your "starter system" and wish you all the best. Feel free to start your own thread (we love pics) of your build in the Aquaponics Systems section when you are ready. Cheers.
  20. Earthen aquaponics is in the making at Thodupuzha.. Both the floor and side walls of these aquaponics sand biofilters are being made of native earth. An another replication of NARDCs low-cost commercial aquaponics build design, considering the labor costs alone for the construction, we accomplish a significant development cost savings in this project as well. Here is a picture. More later. We haven't given it a business name yet.. Any suggestions are welcome.
  21. Poles made of bamboos or any other wood are used as stakes in between. You can use galvanized iron also. Usually the bird's net over larger pond is done in summers here when water level is low or when pond is dry.
  22. To Dr. Mark, the good some times is ignored by those who wants financial profit from it because of it's simplicity and benefit to the greater masses. You have brought knowledge and innovation on how to feed people in need. Gary, your posts have been most informative. I've been out hunting for materials to start my iAVs, it's funny how you suddenly realize what you thought as simple as sand, no dealer in my area understands about sand content. All they know is this is sharp sand for building and this is sand for plastering (you choose how you want to use it) mainly from local river divers and small dredgers- will do the 5 gallon bucket test Am starting with a 1000 liter IBC fish tank and 2 sand grow beds of 16'L X 4'W X 1'H each I've not been able to source a timer and amazon won't send it because it to small to meet their export size, so the pump will be operated and timed manually until am able to get one. Sourcing a pump was also a big challenge I intend to slightly tilt the IBC in the ground to give a semblance of curved base since I can't find a conical based tank as recommended Am planting pepper, cucumber and lettuce Am using catfish that's commonly found here, nobody seems to have tilapia I intend to share my experience so people especially in Nigeria can pick interest Please I'll need suggestions and guidance from all especially from Dr. Mark, Gary and Vkn
  23. Vkn, You have done such a great work and your practical knowledge in commercial iAVs is priceless. The information you offer (I have read all the threads) is highly appreciated by me, thank you for showing it is possible. I notice in all your shade house there is a blue net like material under the cover material, is there any particular reason or need for that?
  24. Hi Moses Personally I'd be happy with my pH at 6.8. I wouldn't be touching the pH just yet. A correctly callibrated electronic meter will always be better than a fluid indicator. I'd be taking the electronic meter readings in preferance to the titration readings. What's your ammonia nitrites and nitrates readings? Cheers.
  25. I've thought of that. How difficult would it be to get it really taunt over the pond without it falling into the water? The pond is 59 by 85 feet. I'd actually prefer to do that if it was effective vs. killing them.
  26. Hi Cecil, I use a thick nylon bird's net to ward off similar birds from our aquaponics fish culture tanks. Your pond is slightly big but it is very much doable in large areas as well. Just thought this would help before your Form 37 gets you a killing licence..:)
  27. Thanks for the kind advice Mr. Jake. I was dousing in some egg shell (8pcs of egg) for organic calcium. And the pH did raise to 6.8 so i removed the egg bag. If i kept it above 7 the plant will be deficient in magnesium later on.
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