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  2. Hi again I wouldn't bet on it, the water have to be high acidic to dissolve eggshells. Did you measure your source water after declorination/aeration ? cheers
  3. Yesterday
  4. I think ive discovered the issue. I was feeding the worms in the grow bed, and without thinking put a lot of eggshells in there. I guess i need to empty the growbed and get all the eggshells out and just start over again
  5. Hi One of my quails have turned broody Every day when I collect the eggs, she is laying on 4-5 eggs in the corner of a box in the pen, she goes complete nuts when I take them away. cheers
  6. Hi all After the fox cleaned out the chicken pen last month, I'w decided to have a new go with ducks. So I loaded the incubater with 25 muscovie eggs, about 2 weeks ago Stay tuned cheers
  7. Hi Final arrival of this year today Latest and smallest of the lot cheers
  8. Last week
  9. Well it been ages since I updated this page,I gave up on trying to grow vegetables and greens,just too many bugs and the high humidity,but latest venture coming along nicely,I have Bananas in my grow beds and they have just started to fruit, so fingers crossed, I also have fresh water Crayfish living in the filters that I hope will breed, but catching them is another matter maybe something like a crab pot would work. Mike
  10. The pic above was taken 4 Apr after a complete tear-down and replanting due to the nematodes. Today I harvested a very nice Broccoli and am on the fence about a couple tomatoes and cabbages. So, to the point, my beds have done a complete 180 turnaround since treating everything with Neem. The new bean plants and carrots are coming along nice, the broccoli, cabbage, tomato and onions I left in the beds during the treatment have made a complete turnaround and are starting to produce. I've also started planting companion plants such as marigolds, catnip, chives and lemongrass in and around the beds to help control pests as natural as possible (we'll see how that works out as summer progresses) along with a periodic inoculation with Neem, both as foliar spray and a Neem/water maintenance level mixture poured around the roots. The RKN's all but ruined everything and caused much trouble I don't want to go through again. A word of advice to anyone working with an iAVs system would be to inoculate any plant you bought from the nursery or big-box store and intend to put into the beds. Root Knot Nematodes are sneaky little bastards and can ride into your system in any plant soil (and survive the F/D cycles and proliferate) and cause a lot of problems before you figure out what's going on. So, everything I put into my beds from now on will be flooded with Neem and quarantined for a few days before being planted. If you find RKN's in your beds, treatment may not need be as drastic as I did, but my level of patience doesn't allow for much time consuming trial and error/wait and see procedures, so I did what I did for my own satisfaction. Taken today. 3 week old beans and carrots in larger bed, smaller bed plants went through the treatment and recovered. As soon as some seeds I'm sprouting get large enough, the Collards will get replaced. Eventually the marigolds and mums will be divided and planted in all 4 corners and along the edge rows of the beds. Mums and Marigolds are supposed to control nematodes. Don't know the radius of their influence, especially in a system that gets "rinsed" on a regular basis, so I'll "sprinkle" a few around. Plus, I enjoy the color splash, and they attract pollinators.
  11. Thanks ande, Sand beds was not initially a part of this build plan. There is a place in my yard i could place an iavs sand bed but its not an immediate priority and right now . i struggle with how would i want to implement it. would i want it to be a standalone system all by itself or integrate it into the large system. academically i dont think it would be a huge benefit if it was NOT a standalone system, otherwise what could i compare and contrast.. Anyway. I am interested in it but if you made me answer today if i will or wont add an iavs system i would say probably not. I did get a sand sample from the local golf course sand supplier tthat i mentioned previously.. i have not yet done the iavs testing on the sand yet
  12. Hi bcotton Nice updates thanks . I can't see any sandbeds, did you drop the golfcourse sand idea ? I have been offerd 4 bigbags(1000liters) for free, of the same kind/quality sand, but I have to go and pick it up. cheers
  13. after taking a week off to get to where i could post the last pictures, i really thought i could get this online between doing odds and ends after work and spending this weekend. But alas, i ended up working friday and satruday nights and sleeping most of the day sat and sunday recovering so i am still not online. However, i did get the aeration installed on the grow beds and added the rafts... i *would* be ready to start planting now but i havent started any seedlings yet and i still need to redo the plumbing around the fish tanks and filteration. its not working as well as i would like right now and i think i can improve it a lot. But i will stop pretending like people read the text and just let you look at the new pictures, see attached word, brian
  14. My snails are gone in the fish tank not long after I added some bluegills (Lepomis macrochirus).
  15. Hi again well you can exclude the tank/growbed then I still suspect the tap water, and/or clay pellets Tap water is manipulated and will often change in chemistry as it gass off. Clay pellets can be full of alkaline residues, deepending on type, brand, manufacture, often it's enoughf to wash it out. You will have to test it to find out. Lava rocks and rainwater is most often pH neutral or acidic, thats why I don't suspect them. cheers
  16. The fish tank is just a glass fish tank and the grow bed is just a plastic tub. I thought that the clay pellets were pH neutral. The pH of the tap water is around 7.5, but the water in my system is still around 9.
  17. Hi Newbie Welcome to APN/HQ I doubt it's the lava rocks or rain water causing your rise in pH, it's more likely your clay pellets or tap water. You can check your media, by putting some in a glass of vinegar if it fizzes (bubbles) then you'w found one potential cause. Tap water often rise in pH as the co2 reeleases so if you measure it 24-48 houers after tapping it that might be it. Or maybe it's your fishtank growbed ? is any of them made out of cement ? If you can post some pics and give more details on building material etc.,it makes easyer for members to advice you. cheers
  18. Hi I am new to this forum and aquaponics in general. I am having a problem with the pH. It is running in the high 8s and even into the 9s. I have lava rock that I bought at the local ace hardware and clay pellets on top. The system has been running for a couple months now but the pH is still high. I've used the tap water and put declorinator in it and that water is about 7.5 pH. I have also used rain water but didn't check the pH on that. My question is did I get the wrong kind of lava rock?
  19. Earlier
  20. I live in one of the few suburbs of dallas that does not allow chickens (even dallas proper allows a couple of chickens) The bill passed the state senate 30-0 and is now going to the house... unfortunately.. i there is a big backlog of bills in the state house of representatives because they want the senate to pass a completely unrelated bill in a specific form (the senate has their own version) and until the senate capitulates the house probably wont be voting on anything the senate gives them. regardless, i am encouraged. its better news than no bills existing..
  21. Hi again You could try contacting TCLynx she haven't been on here fore some years so it might be easyer to contact her dierectly on her web site she runs a commercial "organic" AP operation in Florida. She use and sells the product in Q, and she is usually very helpfull IME cheers
  22. Hi Mikkel On online aquaculture recourses/courses I'w found this good IMO hands on or practcal training at a fishfarm, RD facility or with a conservation group is of equal value (even more) to the technical/theoretical skills you can achive online or in a class. It all goes hand in hand I guess This doc/pdf have references (last pages) to the regulations on aquaculture in DK Lett us know how you progress on the matter, and obstacles or problems to overcome, are just as interesting to learn/hear about as sucsess. Good luck ahead cheers edit to add another great online resource
  23. I have perused the BrightAgrotech page a few times before, but thanks. I notice they still don't have a recommendation for and organic iron supplement there. I got my tissue and water sample results back from the lab finally. The iron was below detectable limits (<0.05ppm). But so were K, B, Mn, Zn and Cu. Has anyone who has a mature pure aquaponics system done a water sample at a lab that would be willing to share their results? Any comments on the other low values (since all nutes, w the exception of Fe and maybe K, are supposed to come from the fish)? Thank you for your time. Have a great day! Bob
  24. Thank you for the links. In the website, you have all the links for the most important official institutions related to aquaculture. Regarding the flow chart, I'm unsure what the Danish take on aquaponics is, when it comes to licensing or regulations in general. If I would go commercial, it could definitely serve as an inspiration in my dialogue with the authorities. And otherwise, I would go to the guys from Akvaponisk Selskab. You mention that fish/aquaculture knowledge is high priority. Do you know of any formal, online courses on these topics? As a agricultural example, I have seen an online course on dairy management offered by Coursera and Penn State University.
  25. yah tomatoes pole beans and cucumbers and anything else i think might climb 10 foot
  26. Hi BC, Looking awesome mate. I gather the tall shade frames are for tomatoes ? Cheers Joe
  27. Hi again This might be a helpful link cheers
  28. I received the Hanna iron test kit yesterday and used it a few minutes ago. My Checker read between 0.94ppm and 1.04ppm over five repeats of the test all within five minutes of adding the reagent to the iron test vial. I then changed the battery in the Checker and repeated three more times with the same result. My conclusion is that it is very likely that my Checker accurately measures iron within a few percent of the actual value. Yesterday I also repeated the same test I mentioned above, adding an ounce (29.5 ml) of the 5% iron concentrate to three gallons (11.3 liters) of spring water. The result was slightly different, reading just over 3ppm for the same solution that I thought should read 130ppm. I also used an online concentration calculator to estimate the amount of 5% iron that would be needed to bring 3400 gallons (12870 liters) of water up to 1ppm (my approximate system volume). Basically Volume1 x Concentration1 = Volume2 x Concentration2. It came up with about 9 ounces (260 ml). Over the past three weeks, I've added over 44 ounces (1300 ml) of the 5% iron and the highest concentration I recorded is 0.21ppm. On the bright side, The chlorosis I was experiencing in most of my crops seems to have improved quite a bit. Although the containers of Biomin iron I've bought all appear to be originals, is it possible I'm getting a diluted knock-off? Not being a chemist, I have no idea if anything in my spring water could be reacting with the iron when it is added to make the iron much less available to the iron reagent used to color the water. One further test I'll try is using distilled water with the 5% iron solution to eliminate that possibility (once I get back into town to buy a container of distilled water). I'll post that result once completed. Any confirmations or critiques of my calculations or conclusions so far would be appreciated. Thank you for your time. Have a great day! Bob
  29. Have seen some trout scattered in the pond. Some look close to 5 inches and quite healthy looking. Saw a couple that appeared much smaller. Either runts or brook trout vs. brown trout. They all still have parr marks. Water temp in the pond is gin clear and in the low to upper 50's. Will wait as long as possible to crank up the well due to cost and in injection of iron particles that may irritate the gills of smaller fish. A source once told me once they reach 4 inches small amounts of iron aren't a problem. Today I installed a membrance diffuser in the middle deepest area for mixing of the water column. (Depth about 10 feet). Will probably run it mostly at night depending on air temps. Once the well is running will run it 24/7. From my experience mixing the water column doesn't warm the water much when the well is running even when air temps are in the 90's (32 to 35 Celsius). Water temp of the well entering at 45 gpm is about 52 F. ( 11 Celcius). In mid summer below a few inches the water temp is 62 F. (16.7 Celsius) all the way to the bottom. Sorry no pictures. Would need an underwater camera for that.
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