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  2. Hi Myke and welcome to APN, This is a great place to look and talk to people about your plans. Feel free to share, ask and talk about your system. Cheers.
  3. Hi, Iv'e been looking at aquaponics for a couple months now and finally had the bright idea to look at forums to talk to the true experts. I live in Colorado and hoping to be up and running by Spring. Myke
  4. Hi Ande, Thats really interesting regarding bitterness and freezing to release the sugar content. We have many 'edible' berries here too, but most are beyond bitter... might try freezing some ! Cheers Toga
  5. Aufin, thanks. Sorry I left out some additional info: It'd be in my garage and there's some windows on the garage door for light to come in. I can probably put all the gold fish in an indoor tank and keep just the tilapia in a 55-gallon. I know it's still too tight but unfortunately that's all I got right now. Maybe I can use a second 55-gallon and split the fish up at least.
  6. Hi I just had to harvest some rowan berries ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rowan ) as the trees are really full of them around here, this year. They are really bitter and need to be frozen before use to release the sugar content . So I washed/cleaned them and got total 2,8kg berries for the freezer. Then I got on the net to find some recipes on how to make rowan jelly more to come cheers
  7. Hi Hooked, Yes, my winter water temps only drop to 12-15c for a very short period. It is not uncommon practice for those with larger systems to cycle 2 species per year. Warmer water perch, cod or barramundi during summer months and a cooler water fish like trout during winter months. Cheers Toga
  8. Thanks! Sorry for the ignorance but is it because it doesn't get that cold during the winter months?
  9. Kinda hard to offer ideas since you didnt mention how much room you have to play with, or if it'll be totally dark. In my opinion keeping that many fish in a 55 gal drum is a bit inhumane, but that's another discussion. I think you're asking for trouble stacking that many fish in such a small place with only a small swirl filter and small biodigester and recirculating the water back to the fish-laden tank. I think you'll need a filter to remove the solids from the circulation and some way to deal with the ammonia buildup from so many fish. If you have a fair amount of room, look into a small iAVs/sandponic setup. You will be filtering the water, growing a few plants and the plants will help with the ammonia situation and help keep the ph under control. You may need to add some plant friendly lighting, also.
  10. Hi Hooked, welcome to APN. Sounds like another interesting build, and now move. Ive never needed to heat during winter here in OZ, so can not offer too much advice. House insulation rolls have been used to great efficiency, if you can get them at a good price. Cheers Toga
  11. BLUF: Bringing the fish indoors for the winter and would like design advice using (2) 55-gallon drum barrels. I have (3) 5-gallon buckets as optional usage. First of all, hi everyone. I'm so glad to have found this community and looking forward to learning/sharing. I am a relatively new AP guy. I have a 350 gal, three-tiered IBC-based AP system. Top tier (largest) houses the fish, middle tier is the grow media/filter, and the bottom is the sump w/ DWC (raft). I use a single pump from the SUMP back up to the main IBC tank. The system was started back in June and finished cycling around mid-August (took a little longer than expected). I used feeder goldfish for cycling. I've since added 4 adult Tilapia (8-9"), 16 medium Tilapia (4-5"), and approximately 25 feeder goldfish (1-3"). The media grow bed (lava rocks) is growing with plants (half-filled). The sump is currently empty. My water parameters are as follows (pH/Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate): 7.2/0.25/0/3). The Nitrate's are a little lower than desired but so far it's been just OK. Anyway, winter is approaching out here in the high desert of California. The nights will drop down to high 30s (F). I am going to harvest the remainder of my plants and am deciding to bring the fish inside vice heating the tank. I purchased two 55-gallon drum barrels and also have multiple 5-gallon buckets to use. Anyone have any design ideas specifically for just keeping the fish warm and comfortable through the winter? I was thinking keeping the fish in a 55-gallon drum that would overflow into a 5-gallon swirl filter and then into a 5-gallon bio media filter and where a small pump would feed water back into the main tank. Any other ideas?
  12. Hi Tam, I assume you put a ball valve on because the water was stirring up the sand on top to much ? So you turn it down a little ? I note you also put some material on top of sand to prevent it stirring up. The water flow needs to be maximum. Open the valve completely. If you put a "T" piece on the outlet hose it will: a) Minimise sand disturbance b) Divert the water into 2 directions c) Push the water across the sand (Not down into it) d) Even water flow through a maximum surface area I am not familiar with that test kit brand. Do you have a friend with his own test kits ? It would be advisable to do some tests using a different kit. Test liquids can become inaccurate as they age. The same brand is OK... we are looking to check the accuracy of the results your kit. Cheers Toga
  13. Hi Toga, A) Instead of only 1 hose outlet pumping into grow bed, perhaps increase this to 3 or 4 outlets. I will open outlet wider, it have valve for I adjust water flowC) Instead of 6 minute pump cycles, increase this to 20mins On / 60mins Off... or more. I will increase the cycles to 20 mins on/ 60 mins off , 10 times / day D) Keep fish feeding to a minimum whilst mortality continue. I already decrease feeding. I make all test for all three tank, please open my attach file Couple of picture for my mortarily Thank Tam Monitoring LH model A.xlsx
  14. Hi Toga, A) Is the drain located in the centre ? Yes, in the centre of growbedB) Do you have a stand pipe / strainer raising a little from the bottom ? If so, How high is it from bottom ? No, I don't have stand pipeC) Can you describe in a little more detail how you made / setup the standpipe / strainer and/or how you prevent the sand from draining into the fish tank ? I use plastic membrance as picture in bottom and next is biger sand - gravel. I don't size of gravel, about 5 kg each tank, and next is my sand
  15. Hi Tam, In my view, these are individual things that I see, that when combined, create the issues you are encountering. 1- Fish per Volume (Species dependent) 800ltr tanks are good for approx 10-40 fish intended to grow to a reasonable food fish size. 2- Grow Bed Water Flow I believe the water is channeling from the hose outlet, through only a very small amount of sand area near the hose, then straight out the bottom. Thus only a very small percentage of sand is being colonized by good bacteria. 3- Total System Water Turnover A 2000lph pump, pumping 1 meter high from fish tank will have a reduced flow rate - perhaps as low as 1200lph (pump model dependent) 1 pump cycle of 6 minutes ON = 120ltrs ------- X 8 daily cycles = 960ltr/day Although I am not super up to date regarding IAVS recommended water volume turn over rates, only once per day seems far to low. I have always aimed for a minimum water turn over of once per hour / 10 times per day, in my non-IAVS systems. I would consider the following: A) Instead of only 1 hose outlet pumping into grow bed, perhaps increase this to 3 or 4 outlets. B) Instead of the hose outlet in the middle, place the outlets around the outside edge of grow bed. C) Instead of 6 minute pump cycles, increase this to 20mins On / 60mins Off... or more. D) Keep fish feeding to a minimum whilst mortality continue. Cheers Toga
  16. Hi Tam, Excellent response with quality info, thank you. This latest info continues to add weight to (add data confirming) my original thoughts and opinion regarding bacterial issues. I will add a detailed response *EDIT* In the morning**, however, I have one more fairly critical set of questions. Regarding the drain from the grow bed... A) Is the drain located in the centre ? B) Do you have a stand pipe / strainer raising a little from the bottom ? If so, How high is it from bottom ? C) Can you describe in a little more detail how you made / setup the standpipe / strainer and/or how you prevent the sand from draining into the fish tank ? Cheers Toga
  17. Hi Toga, I reply for more detail of my system, A) - System Layout / Specs Layout of growbed looks circular. This is my system picture: What is the Depth ? With diameter is 1M, depth 0.4m (with fish tank diameter is 1M, depth 0.7m) Where does water go in ? Water from bottom of fish tank go in grow tank and come down fish tank Where does it drain out ? At the bottom of grow tank Where is the fish tank ? As the picture Shape & Depth ? As the picture Where does water drain in from growbed ? At the bottom of growbed Where does it pumped out from ? (location of pump inside the tank) I put pump at the bottom of fish tank What water volume does it pump per hour ? Pump volume is 2000l/h What are your pumping cycles ? Water was pump 6 minute on and 114 minute off; 8 times/ day from 6 AM to 6 PM Do you pump at night also ? .... OR Only pump cycles at day time ? Only pump at day What grade is that sand ? .... OR ... Is it a fine 2-3mm crushed gravel ? It is my sand size sieve g % on 2 mm 0.74 0.21 on 1 mm 257 73.64 on 0.7 mm 75.2 21.55 on 0.5 mm 10.44 3 pass 0.5mm 5.58 1.6 Your excel file data suggests yet more questions need to be asked. The lack of daily test results makes it more difficult to track, trace, identify and resolve issues as they arise and recede. B) - Water Testing What testing methods/kits do you use ? (Liquid, digital, powder, tablet - What Brand/s ?) I use liquid test from JBL How old are they ? from 2016 Can you do all tests at same time and post a picture of all the re Please explain this notation in your data file. Please view all picture test kit from my file attach Is this additional O2 from compressed air cyclinder ? ... OR Is it from an Air Pump ? - OR - Blower ? From air pump Is "OXY" on any type of daily cycles ? ... OR "OXY" is on 24hrs day ? all 24 hrs day D) - Importance of Test Results Have I mentioned the high importance of accurate, daily records ? Oww... Yes, I have. It is almost impossible to accurately determine where your system sits within all the potential Nitrogen Cycle scenario's. I note you have 3 systems, but data for only 1 ? You should test each system every day - test everything - and record the data separately. 3 individual systems = 3 individual sets of water test records. Thank, I will test separate for each, all my test now from tank 1 E) - Importance of Test Results You current data points out an interesting piece of information and raises another question. Are you doing anything at all in the slightest bit different between the 3 systems ? System 1 mortality is much lower in this round of issues. It is still my view that you have rampant bacterial issues on several fronts. 1) Your Nitrogen Cycle (bacteria) is not / has not cycled correctly 2) If the current fish mortality look the same as previous - ie: bleeding into fins, redness of tissue I would recommend that you consider; Doing all tests again - on all tanks - record each tank separately - and post pics & data Reduce the feeding portion a little (for the short term) Do a 30% water change on each tank. Consider adding another 1ppm of salt to each tank. Post a couple pics of any future mortality. I will make all test today, and will post asps Monitoring LH model A.xlsx
  18. Hi Tam, Sorry to hear of more issues. So far your pics do not give me an accurate idea of your whole system setup. A) - System Layout / Specs Layout of growbed looks circular. What is the Depth ? Where does water go in ? Where does it drain out ? Where is the fish tank ? Shape & Depth ? Where does water drain in from growbed ? Where does it pumped out from ? (location of pump inside the tank) What water volume does it pump per hour ? What are your pumping cycles ? Do you pump at night also ? .... OR Only pump cycles at day time ? What grade is that sand ? .... OR ... Is it a fine 2-3mm crushed gravel ? Your excel file data suggests yet more questions need to be asked. The lack of daily test results makes it more difficult to track, trace, identify and resolve issues as they arise and recede. B) - Water Testing What testing methods/kits do you use ? (Liquid, digital, powder, tablet - What Brand/s ?) How old are they ? Can you do all tests at same time and post a picture of all the results ? C) - "OXY - YES" Please explain this notation in your data file. Is this additional O2 from compressed air cyclinder ? ... OR Is it from an Air Pump ? - OR - Blower ? Is "OXY" on any type of daily cycles ? ... OR "OXY" is on 24hrs day ? D) - Importance of Test Results Have I mentioned the high importance of accurate, daily records ? Oww... Yes, I have. It is almost impossible to accurately determine where your system sits within all the potential Nitrogen Cycle scenario's. I note you have 3 systems, but data for only 1 ? You should test each system every day - test everything - and record the data separately. 3 individual systems = 3 individual sets of water test records. E) - Importance of Test Results You current data points out an interesting piece of information and raises another question. Are you doing anything at all in the slightest bit different between the 3 systems ? System 1 mortality is much lower in this round of issues. It is still my view that you have rampant bacterial issues on several fronts. 1) Your Nitrogen Cycle (bacteria) is not / has not cycled correctly 2) If the current fish mortality look the same as previous - ie: bleeding into fins, redness of tissue I would recommend that you consider; Doing all tests again - on all tanks - record each tank separately - and post pics & data Reduce the feeding portion a little (for the short term) Do a 30% water change on each tank. Consider adding another 1ppm of salt to each tank. Post a couple pics of any future mortality. Cheers Toga
  19. Hi Toga, This is my tomato (22 day old after plant into system) As I told you, your fish not die, I add more 70 fish each tank,Monitoring LH model A.xlsx But after 2 days later, fish continue die, I also test water quality, I want to ask you why NO3 in not increase (it just now 5 mg/l) I add excel file with detail of mortality. Please give me some advice Thank for your help! Tam
  20. Hi Tam, OK. Keep us updated. We all would be interested in seeing some pics of your setup. Sorry for my bad use of the word "investment". I have no "investment" here... we all offer our time and info for free. I was making an example of how sometimes in life everybody needs to consider what they will get in Return for the Investment. Sorry for any confusion. *Example* If you invest $100 on fingerlings + $100 on food + 100 hours of work + $30 on electricity BUT your return is only 2 kilos of fish a few tomatoes and lettuce. Sometimes when faced with this above example investment... sometimes it may be best to cut losses and start fresh. Such example investment, in my view, ought potentially return 50-100 kilos of fish and multiple 100's kgs of veggies. *End Example* Cheers Toga
  21. Hi Toga, I had already add more fish, 70 fish/ tank, I will monitoring my cycle, and may be add some another plant as your advice Thank for your help! All the best for your investment, Tam
  22. Hi Tam, That is great news ! .. and in such a short period of time ! Your timely interventions have shown their merit - Well Done ! Stopping mortality was priority #1 I am away at the moment and do not have time to comment in great detail. Perhaps someone else will add their thoughts too. I would advise caution adding too many fish at once, so soon at this point in time. Because of the new systems and issues thus far, and still existing issues. Your plant issues are multiple: Extremely stressed due to system issues, Nutrient lock out due to pH and now pests. In many cases I have myself had to weight out the: current investment -v- required investment -v- potential return. In this instance it is my view that you may be best served by removing and destroying what plants you have and allowing the sand itself (bio-culture) to continue to mature... add some plants in 7-10 days perhaps. Cheers Toga
  23. Hi Toga, Thank for your help, Today, my morality issues stop, do not have any fish die I had feed them, them seem so hungry after 4 days don't eat any thing I will add more fish tomorrow, With my tomato, it have some bug, See picture for more detail, Can you advice me some way? How can I use for kill them? Thank! Tam
  24. Hi Tam, Hoping the past 48 hours has seen a turn around in your morality issues. Cheers Toga
  25. Each one of us will do things a bit differently than other people. Prevention is always better/easier than cure. In addition to what is discussed, quick changes in temperature during transfer could be another reason for these fish kills. I now suspect parasitic infection that spreads fast but I could be wrong. Stressed fish are more susceptible to parasites. Improper transportation and/or unhygienic handling at nursery may at times lead to 100% mortalities. For parasitic infections, there are several chemicals that are applied by aquaculturists by bath, such as salt, formalin, H2O2 and KMnO4. If possible, first see if you can get the fish tested at a lab.
  26. Dear Vkn, I would have started with small fish numbers or much smaller healthy fish for starters. Your starter fish looks much bigger to me. What about your plants? I bought fish with 6g/ individual. With my plant, I plant 4 tomato/ 1m2, , plant seem deficient nutrient (as picture I attach), 11 days after I plant in grow bed Dear Toga, 9% Salinity = 90,000mg/l I follow your advice, with add 2g/ 800l of each tank today Have mortality rates decreased since you started water changes ? The rate of mortality continue increase, As you see my record, the mortality continue increase, Even I stop feed fish, the belly of fish so big, some fish have different swimming pattern, sign of deficient of oxy, Hope adding salt can help fish stop die, Thank all, Tam
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