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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hi JaquesC and welcome to APN, I don't know much about tilapia, but we have a Mediterranean climate here in Adelaide, South Australia, traditionally dry hot summers, lovely springs and autumns and cool to cold, sometimes wet winters. What's your climate? Cheers.
  3. Last week
  4. Yeah, I'm with you, It would be nice if people posted their failures as well as successes, that way we all learn. I have spent a considerable amount of time looking around for the correct sand and looked at playground sand and know it's way too fine, I suggest it just won't drain for a starter. A couple of issues I have with my back yard is, it is not accessible with a trailer, you can not just get a ton of sand back the trailer down and shovel it into the yard. You have to get the sand then wheel barrow it down a narrow path with a wall each side for 40 yards so you have to get things right first up or you'll be in for unnecessary fitness work out. Although it sticks in my craw, the only sand solution I can see is to buy kiln dried graded sand which the pool people use for their filters and it costs a fortune. The best way for people to choose sand is to physically look at it and feel it so in some areas it is easy to access but in my area, the correct sand is difficult to come by, I digress. Any updates would be appreciated. Cheers.
  5. Still learning here, but wanted to do some research.. I'm located in Spain, ideally I would like to find GIFT tilapia (I think) for a system I'm planning... Though it's not set in stone and would be interested in seeing other options for fish in the area. Also if anyone has experience with GIFT Tilapia and what they can tell me :) Another thing is, if anyone has any experience with aquaponics in Spain or somewhere with a similar climate, talk to me, as I would be interested in getting some insight. T. I. A
  6. I doubt the idea played out very well, or we would have seen by now. I talked with a guy trying to work with sandbeds and sand filtration. As we looked over his system and talked, he didn't want to hear that I thought his sand was too fine (playground sand he bought in bulk) and suggested where I got my sand. His system today is in a big pile in a back corner of his lot. Mine is going along just fine beginning its 4th year of operation.
  7. I have a couple of questions as well, like what size particles is your play ground sand? Ours over here is way too fine for effective filtration. And I also would love to see any updates and how it has panned out. Cheers.
  8. Earlier
  9. hello 🙋‍♂️ ,have you heard about the hdrpe pond liner? this is a great option! take a look at pondlinerusa.com. Have a great day❗
  10. If you just want to keep a couple of koi, it will be fine. However I don't think you going to have enough nutrients to grow much plants on the waste. IMO round tanks can look just as good as a raceway, but I am not an expert in WAF. Second hand aquaculture tanks shouldn't be too expensive. Alternative smooth wall round poly rainwater tanks can be used for the fish. Second grade watertanks with imperfections in the top molding can often be found cheap, and you want to cut of the top anyway.
  11. Thanks @phri hadn't thought about that. I've made a few changes to the design including splitting the pond in two and putting a radial flow filter in between the two. I might look into some round tanks but the in ground raceway type pond is going to be a lot less expensive and look better since my wife is concerned w/ aesthetics. Would a 20'x4' pond still have the same issues do you think? I could break it up into thirds.
  12. I know my reaction is a bit late, but a saltwater skimmer is not going to do much in a freshwater aquaponic system. The surface tension of the salt water enables the formation of the fine bubbles which makes skimmers work so well. There are some commercial freshwater skimmers but I am not to impressed of their performance.
  13. Just a bit on the design; the raceway setup for the fish is going to need a lot of flow or a lot of cleaning to keep the water quality acceptable. A couple of IBC's for the fish will work better, or even better some round aquaculture tanks. You could install an extra ibc after the fish tank to add some extra filtration as this can reduce the fluctuations of water quality due to changes in biomass of plants.
  14. It might be that the static head & hydraulic head combined is close to the max head of the blower. Single stage ring blowers are design to move a lot of air with very little back pressure. Do you have the pumpcurve (head vs flow) for the blower? Also do you have any restrictions in the suction line? such as air filters/non return valves etc as they can reduce performance substantial. Try to run the blowers in series: one blower outlet connected to the inlet of the next one (you create a 2-stage blower). But be careful that the blowers get enough cooling as the airtemperature will go up.
  15. Having some trouble getting adequate airflow to the diffusers in my deep water culture beds. I have three DWC's 1.2M X 18M, with 17 diffusers each for a total of 51 spaced roughly every meter down the length of the DWC's. The water depth in the DWC's is a constant 20cm (8"). I am running two 60 M3/hr ring blowers. Appropriately sized PVC pipe connects the centrally located blowers with a length of PVC that runs down the side of each DWC. Each diffuser is connected to the PVC pipe via a one meter length of 1/8" airline tubbing. The diffusers are 10" long by 1/2" wide, encased in plastic, but open on one side. I was barely getting any airflow from the diffusers with one ring blower, so I recently added a second. There is some improvement with the second blower but the performance is still disappointing. I have confirmed the air filters are clean and the airflow from the blowers feels appropriate in terms of strength or volume. I understand the ring blowers are not suited to develop very much pressure but I would have thought 20cm of water would be acceptable. I am wondering if it's an issue with the diffusers? They are about six months old but don't seem to be any less effective than they were originally. I am reluctant to add another blower as my electricity allotment is already reaching it's maximum. Especially without evidence that this is the problem. I understand a diffuser consumes roughly 0.3 cfm. So, if I am calculating correctly, 0.3 cfm X 51 diffusers = 15.3 cfm required, and my two blowers produce 60 M3/hr, (1 cubic foot = 0.0283168 cubic meter). This works out to 0.43 cubic meters per minute, or 26 cubic meters per hour required for 51 diffusers. Considering each blower is providing 60 M3/hr in theory, I should have over four times the airflow required. So what gives? Is 20cm of water too deep for a ring blower, are my diffusers cheap Chinese junk, or is it something else?
  16. HI mrPickles, I read you about jumping in. I think bigger systems are probably more forgiving but there is more cost at risk if something does go wrong, so you need to know what you are doing to effectively manage it. I think if you can build and run a small set up, it is possibly a steeper more intense learning curve but that prepares you for bigger and better things in the future. If you built outside, you could position the system close and handy to your house and maybe build a small greenhouse and put your system in that. Or if you do it indoors you already have that, but an indoors system may require lighting? so that will add another complexity to get tour head around. It is still achievable though. Both ways have their pros and cons. The duck coop sounds good too. Plenty of ideas to make a decision, let's know what you decide and how you get on. Cheers.
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  18. Thanks for the advice. I have the spring and summer to get started. We're waiting on a grant for the hoop house that won't come through til October at least. Was debating if I should get the climate battery and pond dug beforehand but starting early w/ a small setup is probably a good idea. I have a tendency to jump right in sometimes :) That's how we ended up with 11 geese and 10 ducks! I was also reading that bigger setups can be a little more forgiving. I do worry a bit about starting them outside due to raccoons and the neighborhood cats. If I'm starting that small I might try to rig something up indoors or maybe in our duck coop. Duck coop would be ideal for protection but doesn't get a ton of sun.
  19. Hi Mr Pickles and welcome to APN, You certainly am not crazy and yes I think it's doable. I would start of small first and teach your self how to build and run an aquaponics system. Maybe a modular system where you can add as you grow in knowledge. Maybe some separate systems with different fish. Maybe start with one small system add your koi learn how to run it then build from there. That way when you make, notice I said when, a mistake it is easier to rectify and not so costly. Once you have learned and are successful, then expand so you don't have a major disaster and lose all want for an aquaponics system. Also, you may build a system then find aquaponics is not for you. If you are anything like me you won't, but if you do you haven't invested a lot in a hobby you no longer want to do. That's what I'd do if I were you. With gravel media I'd work on 1 fish tank water to 1 wet gravel and stock lightly. I used that with my first system 3/4" gravel 2 tanks roughly 1 50 to 175 gallons each joined together towards the top with 2" PVC pipe going to one grow bed with a 3/4" ring around the outside with hole drilled in the top to allow for even distribution of water, my drain was at the lowest point. Then I didn't worry about the inlet I just put a 3/4" poly inlet at the highest point of the growbed and let the system drain on its own, there was no difference in the growth of the plants. I started with the fish by lightly stocking the tanks with 20 in each. There is formulae around from the aqua culture people to work out FCR etc but I'm a backyarder so I just started with numbers of fish. With your design I'd also put seperate inlet valves on each grow bed it gives you better control of the flood and drain. Cheers.
  20. So I've been farming for years and I'm finally getting a hoop house. I'd like to transition it to a continuous flow aquaponic setup as well. We'll likely be building an 18'x72' gothic hoop house, air insulated 6mil poly, and solid dual layer poly end walls. I plan on installing a climate battery and potentially a rocket mass heater to hopefully gain a couple zones (I'm zone 5b just outside Lafayette, CO and we get lots of sunshine) and extend my season. The greenhouse runs E-W with the pond on the north side and grow bed(s) on the south side and a small sitting area in the Southwest corner. I'm a total newbie to aquaponics but I've been doing a fair amount of reading and this seems like it would work but let me know if I'm off my rocker :dontknow: Here's my initial thoughts on a layout: Pond: ~4ft wide, 2.5-3ft deep and 55-60ft long pond so somewhere between 4100-5400 gallons. Add small trickling waterfall either with return water from the beds or a small additional solar powered pump. Planning on putting reflective backed insulation on the north wall to hopefully redirect extra sun and heat into the water during winter and shade it during the mid-late afternoon of summer. Use an airlift pump to pump water up to the beds. My wife and son won't eat the fish so I'm planning on raising koi. Beautiful, tolerate of temps and could hopefully potentially resell them. Beds: Flow through two gravel beds that filter before flowing into the raft beds. What is the preferred method to flow from one bed to the next? Especially to get the cleanest water possible for the raft. I was just thinking of a perforated pipe in the middle of the bed, plumbed to the next bed. Should i not perforate and let it siphon the cleanest water from the top and they'll each level out? I have a laser level to ensure everything would be at the proper level across the whole setup. I have lots of leftover lumber from other projects so I was planning building wooden beds 4' wide 8-12" deep and lining them with a duraskrim liner. So each bed I add that is the length of the pond would add an extra 1000-1500 gallons to the system depending on how much is gravel vs raft. I might start with one bed and add the other after the fact once I'm up and running unless there is a reason not to. What would be a good stocking rate for something like this? Especially since koi are so expensive I'd rather buy them as peanuts or 3-4" so that I'm not spending a fortune. I've seen some horror stories of pump failure and fish die-out so I'm planning some alarms and failsafes there but I was also hoping that a pond this big would allow me some time before any issues like that. Am I crazy or is this doable?
  21. Hi everyone, Will like to ask what is the guideline for sizing of air pump required for aerobic mineralization? Do share the air pump that you are using for your mineralization tanks too. Thanks!
  22. Hi Awais, I'm thinking all those readings seem a little high. A few questions. Do you have enough fish in the system? How many do you have? How old is your system? Is it fully cycled? Now let's have a look at your filtration. How much fish tanks water do you have? How much media filtration do you have? What is the media filtration? Do you have any other filtration? If so, what is it? Once we have established that your filtration is good and steady we can look at ways of bringing those numbers down. The pH is a little high for growing tomatoes and it's a little high for running an aquaponics system. It should be 6.2 - 6.6 or there about. No use looking at that until we have established your system is steady. When we have established that then we can look at ways to slowly bring it down, but, if it is consistently that high we first need to look at why it is that high, by looking at the type of media and the results of the water source before you add it. Cheers.
  23. We have been facing an issue at our setup related to tomato plants that we have been growing at our setup. The issue is that the leaves of the tomato plants start to curl down and stay that way and the plants are not producing fruits instead they grow taller and taller with a relatively narrower stem compared to the height of the plant. The fresh leaves are straight though but they start to curl down after some time. These tomatoes are grown alongside bell pepper. the water temperature is 15-18 degree Celsius. the ammonia levels range between 1-1.5 and sometimes 2. the pH ranges between 7-8. the nitrates remain 100-200 ppm range while the nitrites remain less than 10. The fish that we have been raising along is Nile Tilapia. Two of these plants are planted in media bed while the one is in NFT, but same results. The plants are kept indoor with grow lights, but the grow lights don't cover the whole plant. The plants receive a little sunlight during some part of the day as well. The plants are more than 120 days old now.
  24. Hey, I'm putting together a business plan for a commercial pilot system. Something I have had difficulty finding is the wholesale price paid by distributors for various crops, so that I can begin some calculations determining the scale of the system. Are there any resources available online showing current market prices of various crops? Cheers
  25. Hi RWF, Welcome to APN Enjoy. Cheers
  26. thank you I know pic are bad unfortunately thay one problem I cant fix I have never been able to take a good pic ever I'm the porson that cut heads off ppl or my finger in the pic lol
  27. Hi RWF I think you have to post some pics taken out of the aquarium , showing the cray in sharp details, for anyone to be able to help you. This https://f.nordiskemedier.dk/2gt07amola9p2rca.pdf might be of help ? cheers
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