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  3. Hi again Hunter Pehrson Here is 2 links on the matter, you will see that the "ideal" varies a lot, depending on fish species tolerance to ph swings https://thefishsite.com/articles/water-quality-a-priority-for-successful-aquaculture https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fishing/aquaculture/publications/water-quality-management/monitoring-alkalinity-and-hardness I just uploaded a pdf on your Q to the download section as well, since links seems to have a limited shelf life Keep in mind that fish husbandry is just the same in aquaponics, as it is in aquaculture cheers
  4. Version 1.0.0


    Alkalinity and Hardness in Production Ponds
  5. Good question Hunterpehrson, I can't answer that straight out but First of all you should cycle your system and let it settle into a routine, I practcably, daily test for pH, nitrites, ammonia, temp and nitrates and log it down. during cycling. Cheers
  6. Hey all, I know what i'm about to ask is not directly related to the topic, but I am new to aquaponics nation and don't know what else to do. Alkalinity, What is the ideal alkalinity you want in your aquaponics system and how do you raise or lower it? Thanks, Hunter Pehrson
  7. thanks Ande and noted your comments. buckets I thought can be scattered on the terrace unlike sand (long ) bed which may cause more load to that particular area. regards Mohamed
  8. Hi Hunterpehrson Welcome to APN/HQ To answer your Q on alkalinity, I find it easier to point you towards a thread/post and a APN article where the complexity are pretty well explained IMO Quote : Here are the most common scenarios you will encounter that require adjustments: Declining pH - Generally speaking, you will want to maintain your cycled system pH around 6.8-7.2. If it falls below this range, the nitrifying bacteria will be adversely impacted. You need to add a base. There are commercially available products for this, but you can also use relatively common chemical salts like sodium bicarbonate, calcium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, calcium hydroxide, calcium chloride and many others. Specific recommendations are beyond the scope of this article, but will be featured in a later article related to maintaining pH levels....................... cut/paste from this article : I recommend you read all the answers in the post and the full article cheers Edit: I'll add this link here as well: cheers
  9. What is the ideal alkalinity for an aquaponics system and how do you raise or lower the alkalinity level?
  10. Hi Mohamed Welcome to APN/HQ Sure you can use buckets, however the container you choose to use is not representing the main load, so I can't see how that will represent much of a weight reduction on a system ? The sand & water is what should be your main focus and/or concern regarding weight, and it is a really important point to be sure that the place you put it can handle the total load There is a few pictures of small "bucket size" systems in different threads/posts, @vkn have some nice ones in his trial thread IMO Here is one " EASY " You being from India I recommend reading the hole thread, let us know how you progress with however system you choose, good luck on the journey cheers
  11. Hi everyone, I am planning to build a home in india ( presently working KSA) and thinking of doing Aquaponics system (iAVs) on terrace due to shortage of land. I wonder if I could use buckets instead of sand bed to reduce the load. Mohamed
  12. I guess what I'm saying is that, given what sand cand do, we need to get a different perspective on it. It should be more expensive that gravel, lava rock and clay pebbles. Sand can do many things that they can't...so I'd argue that comparing them is futile. I respectfully suggest that your plan ignores how plants grow in soil. There is no question that you could filter the water for a recirculating aquacualture system using sand filters...some of the biggest and most valuable fish collections in the world are protected by sand filters...eg the EPCOT centre...but iAVs is not just about filtering the water....but rather the creation of a mycorrizhae that interacts with the plants to produce the results of which iAVs is capable. There really is only one way to know if your plan is successful. You build a stock standard iAVs...and then you build your planned deviation....and then you measure the performance of both units. Your "need" is predicated on a false perception of the value of sand. If you take a more informed view of sand, that "need" may change.
  13. The price of iAVs-suitable sand ranges from nothing to whatever washed and graded filter sand cost in your area. How much you pay for sand ultimately comes down to what sort of effort you are prepared to put into finding it. If you live in parts of Africa, for example, you will find it...in huge quantities...on the lee-side of sand dunes...for nothing more than the effort of moving it. Sand is like any other substance in a market...the more value that it added to it, the more it costs. Clean, sand - of the correct particle size range is valuable for what it has been demonstrated it can do when used in an iAVsf context. It has to be measured fairly against the alternatives...but that's a problem because when it comes to solid media there's nothing that can come close to doing what sand can do. When it comes to measuring it against DWC or NFT, you have to take account of the cost of the added infrastructure required by those methods...and you still haven't drawn level with iAVs in terms of productivity, resilience and sustainability.
  14. Hi Chris, and welcome tp APN. Did you make any decision on what you are doing? To answer your question in laymans terms if your media is gravel, expanded clay or the like then a 1:1 fish ank to gro bed ratio would work or if you are looking at iAVs then a 1 fish tank to 2 grow bed size would be best. Off course you can get techical and go into the FCR etc but a lot more perameters need to be determined for that and aquaculture people on this forum would be the best to ask abouT that. Regarding a sump, this depends on how much grow bed and what media you are using or you may not even need to use a sump. I've done it both ways sucessfully. The lighting depends on the climate around the fish tank and grow beds. e.g. Are you planning for indoor use? or outside, what periods of sunshine do you have in the winter and summer and so forth. So where are you at right now? Cheers.
  15. Dont know what size range "playground sand" is. I used 5/20 sandblasting sand to fill my sandbeds for much less. Been working fine going on 3 years now. If your plan is to filter your pond AND grow vegs, then consider the beds an investment. Should give you good service for years with much less maintenance efforts than many other kinds of filters, and the plants' taking up the decayed/mineralized nutrients will help keep the water ph stabalized. I would expect you to be quite pleased with the pond/sandponics marriage once the system is stabalized. Load the beds with plants and see what the system will support.
  16. One not-insignificant drawback of the sand bed design is that large quantities of appropriately sized sand can be quite expensive. A recent build I completed (two beds: 3ft x 12ft, 4ft x 12ft) required 2 cu yds of 'playground' sand at $150 / cu yd! In the big picture $300 isn't the end of the world, but that particular sand was the most expensive aggregate sold at my local rock yard, 5-10 times more than gravel or lava. The price is not a deal breaker per se, but for those looking to DIY something as cheap as possible, it is a factor. Anyways, this has got me thinking..... Sand is a great fine particle filter. I've been experimenting with a single 5 gal bucket full of sand to filter/digest the solids caught in the Radial Flow filter attached to my 500 gal koi pond. It was doing great while the temps were cool, but with the last couple warm months this little filter can't keep up with waste production. Appropriately sized though it would work just fine. My thought is to use the iAVS sand bed concept as a fine filter and mineralization stage, but modularize it, separate from the growing area just like we've done with dedicated solids and bio filters in other systems. Perhaps an ibc or two of sand would be enough. Obviously it's more about surface area than depth but I'd need to find a compromise using conveniently available materials and techniques. Finding the minimum sand bed area needed for a given tank size and stocking density would allow me to use a cheaper medium like 1/4" cinder for the grow beds, or DWC or NFT. This would give me many more growing options and setups, especially if I simply added the sand bed filter to the drain of the solids filter. My fish pump could keep going 24/7 keeping them happy and healthy. Of course I'm aware I'm just reinventing the wheel here...implementing a slow sand filter and disassembling the iAVS concept to use only the features I need.
  17. Hi OneTree Welcome to APN/HQ Mine is fine as well, that is after the last forum upgrade cheers
  18. You want a 1:1 fish to grow bed build, for your Barrell you can actually do a flip system where you cut the top off about 12" and then flip it over and then do a fill and drain system. there is alot of these systems on youtube that are pretty good vids.
  19. mine is loading fine, I would test your internet options and run a few cleanups.
  20. New as well, looking through the site now and like what I see. If it helps I read a book about aquaponics and one of the key things it talks about is starting small. You can look into a "55 gallon barrel and turn it into a aquaponics system. Should cost under $100 easy.
  21. Hi Myke and welcome to APN, This is a great place to look and talk to people about your plans. Feel free to share, ask and talk about your system. Cheers.
  22. Hi, Iv'e been looking at aquaponics for a couple months now and finally had the bright idea to look at forums to talk to the true experts. I live in Colorado and hoping to be up and running by Spring. Myke
  23. Hi Ande, Thats really interesting regarding bitterness and freezing to release the sugar content. We have many 'edible' berries here too, but most are beyond bitter... might try freezing some ! Cheers Toga
  24. Aufin, thanks. Sorry I left out some additional info: It'd be in my garage and there's some windows on the garage door for light to come in. I can probably put all the gold fish in an indoor tank and keep just the tilapia in a 55-gallon. I know it's still too tight but unfortunately that's all I got right now. Maybe I can use a second 55-gallon and split the fish up at least.
  25. Hi I just had to harvest some rowan berries ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rowan ) as the trees are really full of them around here, this year. They are really bitter and need to be frozen before use to release the sugar content . So I washed/cleaned them and got total 2,8kg berries for the freezer. Then I got on the net to find some recipes on how to make rowan jelly more to come cheers
  26. Hi Hooked, Yes, my winter water temps only drop to 12-15c for a very short period. It is not uncommon practice for those with larger systems to cycle 2 species per year. Warmer water perch, cod or barramundi during summer months and a cooler water fish like trout during winter months. Cheers Toga
  27. Thanks! Sorry for the ignorance but is it because it doesn't get that cold during the winter months?
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